Boog's Blog

Thursday 6 October
Cool, but hot in the sun

Stroll around the beaches after a visit to the tourist office to clear up travel details.

Rome 2 Rio and Google maps had conflicting advice on how to get to San Sebastian on a Sunday. Pesa seemed not to run. The tourist office said "there is only one ONE way!" We got tickets on alsa.

Walked to Bidart. On the way back I looked for the bus station. Asked a local who could not understand my repeated bus questions. Finally: ah, buuus, led to clear instructions.

Ramen dinner, good, with crosne vegetable pronounced crone. A Chinese veggie of long standing. Pic on Flickr.

In Album 10/6/16

Check this out on Google+

5 October Wednesday
Cooler.

Short story that did not make yesterday's blog. At dinner I tried to order fries.
The amazing part is that the restaurant did not sell frites. She said she could go next door and get them for us. Real service.

"You cahn't get theah from heah."

That is, St. Jean de Luz via bus. Short ride, almost walkable, but took two buses. However, we never got there.

First, after endless traffic, we arrived at the train station. After a few wrong attempts we found the correct bus. Waited 25 minutes and the bus pulled up. Door opened and the driver quickly told the pile of us waiting at the bus stop, and I translate: no, bus full, another in 45 minutes.

We left and went back to town for lunch. Basque soup de poisson is the same as any other soup de poisson in France. Good but not different.

Dinner: Parmentier de canard, Belle boeuf et frites. First a ceviche with mango.

Anyone tried Parmentier de canard?

In Album 10/5/16

Check this out on Google+

4 October, Tuesday.
A little cooler, no rain yet.

Bayonne day. Also meeting a professional actress, surfer and rugby player- three interesting encounters.

First an American style breakfast where we met an interesting couple and learned about the bureaucracy of French schools.

She an actor, just below script approval level. He a former professional surfer who could have been a contender but a child, travel and her acting career led to a different life style. He and she are rounding celebs for a heathy eating platform. Today waiting around to pick up their child from school.

Drop off 08:30, pick up at 12:30, drop off again after lunch and repeat pickup. Many papers to be filled out for child physical even though they brought papers from Australia.

A short bus ride away to a larger city, Bayonne, one on a river splitting the city into two parts. The cathedral, of course, is on the grander part.

Bayonne: cathedral started in the 13th and completed in the 19th or 17th depending on your view of the "new" towers. The city is much more Basque than Biarritz. Lots and lots of bridges and remnants of several layers of military walls from the moyen ages, old houses, many painted in Basque colors line the river and city center shopping area.

Pinxos are available though they have a French influence and are different than the Spanish version. Food not laid out to view so no photo.

Several restaurants had piperade with the plat du jour. Also soup de poisson. The bistros are much more French.

The pink ten are free! All hail the pink ten. QB found open toe sandals freeing the somewhat injured and crushed pink ten.

Dinner of raciones, pictured, next to a fun couple. He an ex rugby player and someone who enjoys life large. Both with about as much English as we have French. Wide ranging and challenging conversation for all but a great practice evening with a fun couple. Fortunately it started off well with us explaining that we would be Quebecois if trump won.

In Album 10/4/16

Check this out on Google+

2 October Monday
Warm, windy.

Breakfast like a real French housewife: went to the market for figuo, gaztanbera, bread, etc.

While gobbling our truffled omelettes at the market yesterday we met two perfect Parisians. The perfect young woman ordered the figou and ate a thin slice on a tiny sliver of bread. She explained that it is a young goat cheese with fig jam ( the purple stuff) inside. Whole, it looks like a large head of garlic. The cheese is very mild and the fig jam is fairly subtle. Very nice.

As to the gaztanbera:

https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaztanbera

QB has her first French aperol spritz, she pronounced it well made and to her liking.

Tried to get piperade for dinner. Qb found a place that has it on the menu. Nope, have none, would you like green beans with your gambas?

In Album 10/3/16

Check this out on Google+

2 October Sunday
A little cloudy, no rain

Decided to stay here longer as opposed to going sooner back to San Sebastian. Both are excellent but the cuisine and language (I.e., annoying the French with our bad accents) as well as Biarritz being interesting persuaded us.

Hotel upgraded us to a junior suite, large with an excellent view. Very nice of them.

Brunch at the market. Perfect omelette with autumn truffles, some cheese and local hams. A Parisian couple next to us, perfect in looks and manners, were here for the festival. We were unsuccessful in asking about a piperade serving place. This may be pays-Basque but generally in name only. They shared a fine looking figou.

Apples, pears, bread, Basque cake all acquired for the room.

Found a nice plage marked "sans tabac". Very well used with swimmers, bathers and sun sitters.

Many many surfers in the designated surfing areas. Long wait for good waves.

Another good spot is found among a fine collection of natural rocks, varied outcroppings, many look like what children's parks are designed to have. These, naturally, are far more majestic. QB found them so lovely that a small, but tasteful, double eye leak occurred. A hug may have comforted her.

During our brunch today the perfect couple explained that Basque and other cuisines are out, hamburgers are in. As we walked the very tasteful casino shopping area, as well as the palace area their comments were evident.

A short swim before dinner. Bright sun and cool wind kept it short.

In Album 10/2/16

Check this out on Google+

Saturday 1 October
Some rain forecasted and arrived. On and off all day.

Speciality coffee and tea place next to the market, looked perfect for a pre market tea.
However, they do not know how to use excellent ingredients. Made acceptable rather than excellent. Prepared a pot of hot water and while it was cooling went to fill sacs of fine tea. Did not tamp down the freshly ground coffee before putting it into the machine.

Fromages Pont l'evecque and compte from the market on fresh bread became our breakfast. A large fun market with variety and energy.

Later QB refused to leave a small tip at an overpriced cafe overlooking the sea. Served her cold milk, quel horreur, with her café au lait. We sent it back as is only right.

In a shoe store we were discussing the American election. When I mentioned the affair of her husband and her not leaving him as an item of revulsion by some, the response I got, in reference to not leaving, "who hasn't?"

Lovely seafood dinner at Bar Jean. Razor clams, large gambas, moules and soggy fries. I pointed out the latter and the garçon said, no, this is how they are supposed to be. Started up with we don't know France. I explained we have been coming longer than her is alive. He resorted to, well these are home made and this is the way we make them at home. He got no tip.

In Album 10/1/16

Check this out on Google+

30 September Friday
A little cooler but not enough.

Translated from the Spanish: "Is this the right bus to San Sebastian?" I ask. "No! You take the premium black bus" ( you stupid tourist muttered). Bus pictured.

On the bus they came around and offered nuts, chips, hot and cold drinks, all included with the wifi. And movies, headphones. One hour bus ride.

Bobby: be sure to book Premium, best to do a day ahead as it fills up. We took the 11:20

Biarritz: smoking everywhere. Basically must sit inside although weather is fab. Every bar, cafe, restaurant filled, it being Friday, with smokers. Tables seem available inside.

Got lucky, our hotel is near the food street and market. Lots to see, eat, and people watch through a cloud of smoke.

Had a nice Saint Emilion with dinner, been a long time.

Great views from hotel to the city and ocean.

In Album 9/30/16

Check this out on Google+

Thursday 29 September
Continued warm, hot

Breakfast at cafe Iruña, an old favorite. An obligatory visit to the gazpacho section of El Corte, and then to have a PSL at Starbucks. A favorite seasonal drink for QB.

Guggenheim has the hot dog vendors theme according to a telegraph article. When we got to the museum we were told no. Closed. Only open for the summer.

Stella piece, outstanding

-Warhol, boring, one theme of 102 similar panels.

-L'Ecole de Paris, an interesting exhibit called with many of the very famous modernists of the first half of the 20th century

Then a refreshing gazpacho with some watermelon mixed in.

Dinner at El Globo, one of our favorite pinxos places. Excellent as it has been in the past.

Dinner capped by Basque street dancers, pic on Flickr..

Ah, then a cuojada made with sheep milk.

A fine day overall.

In Album 9/29/16

Check this out on Google+

Wednesday 28 September
Warm to hot day, temperature well up.

Fly to Bilbao late afternoon.

Morning walk, found melindras de Galicia, an anise based cookie that qb especially liked.

http://st-listas.20minutos.es/images/2012-04/327012/3482403_640px.jpg?1334650656

During a conversation at a local cafe the owner explained why gallego is so prominent on signs and menus: the government pays the shop owners to use gallego. Included an interesting discussion about entrepreneur in Spain versus USA as well as his, similar, take on Spanish cuisine by region.

Pic taken from the park.

New 5 year old airport in Santiago

Arrived Bilbao and took the local bus right to the front of our hotel. Pinxos for dinner.

In Album 9/28/16

Check this out on Google+

Tuesday September 27
A little warmer, no rain

Morning cuajada,a very Spanish desert or morning yogurt variation; we first saw it as a dessert on the previous Camino. Now also made by Dannon. Have never seen it in the states.

Lazy day with a longish walk in the park, reading, relaxing.

We tried, and failed, three times to get a certificate. Each time we went to the office that hands them out, assuming you have a completed passport of stamps, the line stretched far too long, longer, possibly, in time than some walls.

A real dinner tonight, not a tapas one. The hotel has a gallego restaurant with a gallego menu, natch. Sardines, rice, seafood.

In Album 9/27/16

Check this out on Google+