Boog's Blog

Friday September 23
Very foggy beginning, warmer later.

Arrival, end of the Camino Portugues pilgrimage. A much shorter and easier one than the French way. Unfortunately QB did not get to enjoy due to constant painful feet.

At breakfast we learned of piel de sapo (or, skin of toad) brand of melon Blanco, inexpensive, regional, excellent. We have been having it every day since Lisboa.

Also the regional cheese, mild, good with morning rolls. BAMA queso de pais, Galicia.

Rolling hills, forests, a few steep climbs, 29 km day due to routing. Maybe 18 on the main road.

Nice room at the parador, will be here five nights. First stop after checking in and obligatory (scaffolded) cathedral pictures, was for tapas. Here they are laid out the way we saw all across northern Spain. Wonderful tapas dinner. Followed by pretty good ice cream.

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Thursday 21 September a lot cooler

First stop a stone pillar in the main church. The city apparently gets its name from this stone which, legend tells, Jame's boat was moored in Padron.

Church has a collection of polychrome and 3D carvings depicting his arrival. QB took a number of pics for Flickr.

Peppers de Padron: in the supermarkets, in bags being kept cold, at $3 per pound. No black tea in the supermarkets.

Dinner confusion: we were offered pasta of vegetables as a starter. Sounded good. Asked him to repeat for QB. Also sounded good. However a terrine of veggies appeared. Apparently it was a pastel of legumes. We sent it back for a salad.

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A little cooler, still no rain.

Off to the land of peppers de Padron as well as the first sighting of Columbus returning from the New World. A map shows how much silting has occurred as Padron is no longer near the water.

Once again every church was closed tight. No way in and no way to get stamps. Stamps were available only in bars. Very un- pilgrimage-y.

Track was mostly very nice with shade in forests, rolling hills, a number of pointless ups and downs. Much felt like a walk in the park. Typical 22km day.

A woman from Orlando has walked in flip flops! Pictured. Claims they are more comfortable.

Outstanding peppers for lunch.

Hotel is a pousada even though we are in Spain. Nice interesting building, large room, pool of very cold water. Good for soaking aching feet.

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Tuesday 20 September

Second day here. A rest and hot water day. Stuck my toes in the local foot bath fountain but decided to eat in town rather than soak.

QB acquired a pair of wedge shoes, beige, apparently a classic Spanish style.

Again no stamp at the church. On this route we have seldom been able to get one at the obvious place; just the reverse of the French way.
Lunch amusement. Three sitting areas in the bar/restaurant. After drinks and asking for the menu we waited for service. Finally I got up and ordered. Became apparent that our area was not for eating; served us anyway.

The Torre do Rio is rustic, modern, very well maintained and non English speaking. The pool is river fed.

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Monday 19 September
Another hot day.

Hotel, Torre do Rio, is incredibly rated. 5 on trip advisor, 9.8 on booking. It is a rural hotel with 12 rooms, enormous grounds, thick stone walls, dozens of places to relax, minimal but sufficient amenities.
www.torredorio.es

Caldes is a thermal springs/spa place, hence the two day stay. Hope to try it tomorrow.

To date the morning breakfast has been a delight for us fresh fruit lovers. Melon Blanco, oranges, pineapples, watermelon etc. All fresh and cut up in large bite sized pieces. Perfect.

The landscape yesterday and today, now that we are inland is more agricultural, lots of grapes for wine and lots of feed corn. Not much livestock. Not much forest diversity; QB believes the first is in serious trouble.

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Sunday 18 September, another blazing hot day. A day of "Boogs Asado".

QB awoke to a spectacular view of Orion shining through her open window; described it as almost a Van Gogh.

Several 500+ climbs on rocky and bouldered paths, definitely needed a stick today. Many walkers on the path today. Coastal and traditional merged. Numerous Germans, no Americans, a few from Mexico, an assortment of other nationalities.

Possibly due to the extra sleeping yesterday, or a change of socks, or getting stronger or the full moon QB had a good walking day, no exhaustion or severe pain in the feet even though another 20+ km day.

Arrived at a reasonable hour and looked for an ice cream shop in the central city. Not an iced cream culture here. Found some froyo which hit all the right notes.

Hotel is another parador. Sixteenth century building with lovely hallways and rooms.

Excellent regional white wine from northeast Spain, ribeiro. A white tempanilo. QB slightly drunk from a pre dinner drink. Dinner not until 8:30 earliest.

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Saturday 17 September same weather only hotter. Very much hotter.

Day starts with a high climb,+550 feet, out of Vigo. Rolling ridge with great views follow until a sharp descent into Redondela, located on a giant bay.

Lots of benches until we needed them for a rest. Uncomfortable picnic spot just 50 meters forward from a picnic area. Oh well.

Passed excellent waterfall. Was to early to eat at that time.

Stopped for another round of peppers de padron. They really are much better here than in Calif.

Hotel, a one star b&b, big one with 30 rooms and with a large kitchen. Nothing like our B&Bs. Not elegant but the setting is stunning and the flies numerous. The food copious and good.

Upon arrival at the hotel QB feel asleep instantly. It was a long hard day, 12+ miles with many hills and little food.

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Friday 16 September cloudy, no rain

A walk of many many excellent large beaches. Coastal almost the whole way.

Wonderful tree on the way. Same type we saw at the parador.

George, anyone know the name of this tree? See picture.

Lunch in another town called Oia. Nice cuajada and yogurt as a picnic lunch. Passed a nude beach right out of Oia, quite surprised to see this in Spain. Mostly good looking men.

Snack of patatas bravas and shrimp with garlic as we entered Vigo.

15+ Mile day. Some very sore feet.

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Thursday 15 September rain shower then sun and clouds.

Morning foot prep items, pictured, before tourist, rest day and food tasting day.

Empanada de gallego, flat, meat filled, very much different than the Mexican ones. Scallops as tapas, many different gallego cakes, sweet empanada at the bakery.

Shopping thwarted by long retail siesta of 3 hours. Dinner at our place of choice did not even open until 20:30. Ate at the hotel bar to avoid a very late night before tomorrow's longer walk.

Sadly, no smoked salmon at breakfast, but peppers de Padron were available. Probably a requirement in Galicia.

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Sunny and pleasant. Then rain at 14:00.

We were awakened to the very enjoyable sound of waves crashing the nearby shore. The coast of Spain in this area is spectacular. Rocky, many outcrops, waves pounding the boulders and shore.

Saw a second potential retirement place for Bobby and JD. Pictured.

Also pictured are the Mirabella that the proprietor of the A Raiña hotel gave us.

The hotel, a parador, is located inside the castle here in Baiona,a beach, resort, historical, charming town. http://www.paradores-spain.com/spain/pbaiona.html

Got into a tapas place just as the rain began. Peppers, chorizos, wine. Nice lunch.

Lacón is a local d.o.p ham. Tried it at dinner. More like our mild processed ham.

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