Boogs Sack Via de la Plata. BSVLP

As a friend recently said: “it is the journey not the destination”

For the followers we have neglected to keep up with during Covid Times a late apology. To the newly following this is a short intro and test draft. Need to shake out the little bits and make sure they still work as hoped.

We planned to walk this route in April 2020, then October 2020, then April 2021 …..

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The plan, if legs and other bits permit: Start in Sevilla and end up two months later in Santiago de Compostela.

The Via de la Plata – a confused name.

“The term Vía de la Plata is commonly thought to derive from the modern Spanish word for silver, plata. The name actually derives from the Arabic word al-balat, which means cobbled paving and described the road as engineered by the Romans.[1]

Another take on the Via

The Silver Route, despite its name, was never a road for the circulation of silver trade. Such denomination is due, as in other occasions, to a popular evolution due to a phonetic confusion. In the Andalusian period, this route was called al-Balat (the paved road), a word very frequent in other areas of Spain and the origin of place names such as Albalat and Albalate.[2] It is possible that this pronunciation led people to transfer the sound to that of the precious metal, and that is why it began to be called the Via de la Plata on an indeterminate date, but before 1504 and 1507, when it was first documented with Christopher Columbus and Antonio de Nebrija, respectively. In the first it appears simply as the Plata[3] and in the second in this form:”

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BSSEA Singapore

Wednesday mid day arrival. First stop Jurong bird park. QB looking forward to this attraction.

Hornbill at Jurong Bird Park

Have been discussing this park with QB for many years, since my visits to Singapore. First stop after getting off the boat. Taxi ride to the park and several hours there. Could easily spend a couple of full days there if you are a bird lover.

In short: did not disappoint. The variety, the layout, the jungle like landscaping all fit together.

Chilli crab, at Jumbo Seafood. Alaskan variety

Several months ago started collecting latest and best places for chilli and pepper crabs – favorites of mine and many others in Singapore. Don suggest Jumbo Seafood and it was a fine choice; did not disappoint.

After gorging on the above we ordered and devoured Dungness crab with black pepper. Did not disappoint. Afterwards I sent a note to Don who asked “did you have the donuts?” Yikes, we were in waddling state after so much crab and some veggies.

Thursday, off the boat early to avoid mass customs clearance with luggage. Stationary stores with moderate success. Then a visit to Chinatown.

Rebuilt Hawker market in Chinatown. In Peoples Park

Hawker markets are an outdoor, meaning no a/c, institution here. Some stalls even have Michelin stars and require reservations. Too hot for us to sit outside but great for food browsing. Chinatown very relaxed feeling, no dirty side alleys, wide aisles, easy browsing.

Just a few of the varieties

Clearly fresh fruit is available and at far lower prices than the markets.

Buddha tooth relic temple. We saw it while wandering about Got to see a chanting ceremony, in Mandarin, with an variant style of Buddhism. Have video in phots but will not play in blog. Shoes on, oddly for us.

Singapore, as in all of South East Asia, has grown dramatically since I have last been here. Maybe Singapore the most. The general feeling of the group is that this is a first world country and the US is a far far back second rate one. Everything is functional, smooth running, easy to use (trains), available etc. It is what the USA could have been if we invested.

Asked a taxi driver about the government. No complaints, everything works well, nary a bad word or thought. Passed a giant condo. Oh, the government built it, made apartments, 2000 sq. ft, subsidized it, and then offered spots by lottery. Has doubled in value in a few years. Naturally, no non locals can buy.

Final dinner at TimHoWan, a dumpling place of some renown. Not disappointed. Return tomorrow. So ends another adventure.

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BSSEA Ko Samui and then Singapore

Monday, late morning tendering at the tropical beach/jungle Ko Samui. Our last port excursion.

Dinner last evening was a Thai buffet. Highlight, for me, was the fruit. Star fruit, jack fruit, dragon fruit, papaya, pomelo, passion fruit, juju, guava…… Most of these were on my plate.

Twelve meter Buddah, a highlight of Ko Samui

Ko Samui has about 70K people and about 2 million tourists a year. Pukhet, in the South, has 400K people and 16 million, yes I asked again, tourists a year. Ko Samui was crowded enough.

Coconut farming is the second industry here, second to tourism. They use the trained monkeys mentioned earlier for harvesting. Work normal hours, fed rice and bananas, and are part of the family.

One of several water buffalos

Water buffalo at the area near the above Buddah

Formerly a fishing village, now much of it, except the coconut growing area, looks like a beach town. There are many beaches here, some, like the Four Seasons ($2K a night and V. Putin’s place), high end. The beach we visited was nice but not as nice as Da Nang

At the beach KB got to dip toes into yet another water – quite warm it was.

A cooling iced coffee after shopping, on beach, for sarong, in picture.

Thai iced coffee on the beach. Quite a process to make, sweet, and good for an occasional treat. Expresso, condensed milk, foamed milk and ice. Lots of stirring during the processing.

Was having a snack of grass

Elephants at the waterfall.

Monument to the Southern Chinese who peopled some of this island.

Revered community leader.

Tuesday, a day at sea. Bridge tour, quite extensive. Got to understand a bit about how navigation systems work and rules of the road and communication.

Poor picture of crowded navigation panel
Fruit carving at chocolate buffet
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BSSEA Bangkok 2

Saturday. All day tour day. M arranged a special tour that we joined. 8 of us.

QB after a bit of heat and humidity

First stop the Royal Palace. No Feng Shui by in my views. Far too many ornate and beautiful places stuck together. No gardens. Crowded with tourists like us. About 2 million square fee of palace grounds.

Many palace buildings, very crowded. Each building shining in gold or gold leaf or gold paint with glass sparkling

Discussed with the guide how the opulence reminds of the West with big palaces that led to revolutions when the poor saw how the royalty lived and took their money. Not here, “the king has his own money, people are happy to give, from wars…. “. No concept of distributing the wealth.

Visitor from Saigon was queried by me. How do you like it here. Too hot, not like Saigon. So the world turns.

Gold leaf being put on a Buddha by QB. Traditional in Thailand at temples. One buys a small gold foil and applies it. The one pictured has many, including the one by QB.

QB applying gold leaf

Long tail boat ride among the canals. Some slow riding and some fast riding. Great way to see the diversity, both of the wealthy and mostly the poor living along the canals.

View from the boat which has a giant 357 Chevy engine with a single propeller.

See additional pictures here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rXKPCraurEbybKvs6

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Sunday morning, very early, trip to the floating market in Bangkok. Now quite a way out of town. Used to be close by but faded away when farmers distribution changed to trucks and roads. The market now is far away and mostly for tourists. Maybe 80% tourists. As a side note, 80% of population is still agricultural.

At the floating market. Pier side boat is one of many such restaurants.

On the long boat on the way to the market. Through many such canals with houses built right to the water way. Canals under flood control.

In the canal

Drove through miles and miles of salt pans and coconut farms. In parts of Thailand they use Malaysian trained monkeys to harvest. Here farmers climb up. Now introducing a new variety that is just 2 meters tall and provides fruit in the fifth year.

At the floating market street food. Tom Yum pictured but also had fried bananas, covered with rice, and mango slices with sweet rice.

Campaign slogan developed by Michelle and QB: Drain the swamp, flush the toilet.

Cloud photos from today. https://photos.app.goo.gl/h5d7eZidbq8xKCTs7

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BSSEA Bangkok 1

Friday. Mid-day arrival. As this is a smaller ship we were able to go well up river and dock within 30 minutes (bus) of central Bangkok. The larger ships dock about 2 hours away from the center. And that is with normal traffic.

Bangkok is now visited more than London or Paris. 22% of the 70 million people live in Bangkok, this crowded with locals and tourists. The onboard speaker said that Bangkok has the highest median temperature in the world. This is because places like Cairo cool down at night but not here. Bangkok not the hottest but the highest median temperature.

Protest about climate and air pollution.
Numbers are particulate counts. Every Friday protest.
Silk worms in various forms. At Jim Thompson house. He basically made the silk trade Thailand’s business. Very popular tourist stop.
Monkey dance at ancient city performance. Outdoor museum, 320 acres, shop rented the place for the evening
might have been an interesting evening except for extreme heat humidity and 90DB sound system
QB lighting candles in the canal of the ancient city
Just one of the hundreds and hundreds of buildings in the ancient city.

The ancient city contains three types of dwellings. Original reconstruction and fabricated.

Some shots of the day.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8pBsYBc9xyxyrjb18

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BSSEA Saigon 2

Wednesday, half day before cruising again

Sit down breakfast notable only for the choice of fruits available. Nice collection of local choices but missing fresh jackfruit; was quite good last evening.

In 2007 stayed at the Majestic hotel, only about 1 km from here. Wandered over there after a nice walk up the main colonial area streets. On one of them a great find: Kinokiniya. QB acquired a reasonable amount of stationary. Yes, a great find.

At the Majestic in their coffee area.

Successful street shopping as well, t-shirt, and coffee.

Final thoughts after leaving Vietnam and heading towards Bangkok. Apart from the obvious growth (building and prices) since my last visit the corruption seems to have increased significantly. Two guides told us similar stories. I doubt I would have heard either story in my previous visit.

Both were University trained, both spoke decent English. One was trained as in chemistry the other in the humanities. Both wanted to teach school; neither could get a job as they had no connections and not enough money for a bribe.

Thursday, cruising all day. QB chose to work out at gym. I enjoyed being a bum, time enough to return to sweating back home.

Front of boat in being a bum area

When I went back to the room QB was napping; so much for the gym.

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BSSEA Ho Chi Minh City

Monday, a cruising day on our way to Saigon.

Brunch was a fine catered dim sum event. Dinner, not pictured, was Raj based, both cuisines. Also quite good.

Peking duck, freshly prepared

Tuesday Oct 22. Did not rain as forecasted. Hot and humid of course.

Morning and mid-afternoon tour as arranged by M. Private tour, just the four of us.

Flower market tour.

Mostly wholesale

Honda, meaning all motorbikes, spare parts tour. Interesting section of the town. One could build a full motorbike from the parts being displayed.

Wholesale (and retail ) market of almost everything. Two story, crowded, motor bikes going between isles 3 feet wide, motor bikes, people and vendors delivering goods.

Where vendors go to eat

Politics discussion: Started with a question I asked: How do the locals feel about HK, pro-Beijing or pro-HK. Very much the latter. Then the guide mentioned that Obama got an enormous and friendly welcome. Large crowds. As did Clinton. So I asked about if Trump showed up- no one would come to see. When Xi came there were unfriendly protests and banners.

Outstanding lunch, one of the best. The kind that would be $150 a person in Palo Alto. Menu and food pictures in the link of the days pictures.

Picture of set menu we had,$20

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0r_PkJwfbaaFP8TJs_rymrPew

Cyclo ride around the Colonial area. To Notre Dame, the Post Office, the Opera. After this all too tired for even coffee so back to the boat.

Closed,of course, renovations

Gigantic white buffet. Everyone dresses in white and eats enough food for an army. Actually quite well done with multiple cuisines. I had soft shelled crabs, sashimi, tuna, dragon fruit pomelos jackfruit etc.

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BSSEA. Halong Bay 2

Friday, final day in Ha Long Bay, then onto Dan Nang area

A relaxing day of doing nothing but reading, QB off to the spa and snacking on Jackfruit occasionally. The pomelo of yesterday was a complete and soon in the garbage failure. I enjoyed pomelos of outstanding taste all throughout my bike trip years ago. This was not to be one of the good ones, hard, tasteless. A great disapointment.

On the bridge of excursion boat, yesterday. Little room for UV damage

The jackfruit chips, are not a disappointment. No objectionable smell, crispy, a good dried fruit taste. Now, after yesterdays shopping adventure have three bags full, or less than full.

Picture of sunning themselves

Michele’s birthday champagne and dinner this evening. Someone on the ship recognized it was her birthday and surprise decorated her room. Her credit card gifted her some champagne.

Birthday “girl”

Along with birthday cake and a fine dining experience at the upscale restaurant.

Sunday, to Da Nang area, rain forecasted. Got a downpour during lunch but cleared quickly. Considerably warmer on the room balcony. We have been heading South since HK and it is noticeable

Michelle arranged an all day private tour. Just six of us with a local guide (one couple dropped out due to pneumonia and had to be sent home ruining, of course, their cruise. I don’t know if they are one of the many on the ship that have cruised 20-30 times. When I ask frequent travelers where they live my first thought is to ask them where they store their stuff.

First stop, Cham temples in My Son. Visited them in 2007, second visit better as the guide was better.

Partially restored temple

Cham kingdom 2nd to 13th century when they were defeated by the Vietnamese. The temple area has been under restoration well before my 2007 visit. Enormous area just for religious observance. Hindu statuary, likely peopled by persons from Indonesia.

Lingum and Yoni, fertility. One of many forms

Hoi An, old city tour. Part Japanese, part Chinese, part French. Old architecture, large crowd on Sunday (also Womans Day.

Bridge between Japan and Chinese area

Day finished with a stop at Marble mountain, really five special hills, the lovely coastal beach and Vietnamese buffet dinner on the boat.

Far too many pictures to include but each area can be googled for images running into the millions as these are all popular tourist spots.

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BSSEA On the Amazara Quest

Wednesday, fair skies. Onto the boat and getting settled. Signed up for their slow, one device at a time, internet package. Time will tell how functional.

Leaving port.

Got to the room and found that we are to set back the clocks one hour. Tricky with only one device on net; no time sync.

Thursday – at sea all day. Heading to first stop, Halong Bay. Just a down day, reading and eating,

Friday. Arrival in Halong Bay; Off boat excursion.

Halong Bay, known to many of us as Haiphong, consists of 1989 islands, of which 980 have no name. Apparently some/many of the bombs are still in the harbor. The bay is part of another infamous name, Gulf of Tonkin.

Typical formation

Boat ride on the bay with a visit to a large cave. The two rocks below are the icon of Halong Bay.

Called the two roosters

Cave of course. 250 steps and about .5 km to get through.

A visit to the town via a shuttle bus. Went to a mall to get pomelo, something I well remember from my bike trip. Took some effort with Google translate to ask for one ready to eat today. Then they took it away and peeled it, not what I wanted but fine. Will eat a breakfast tomorrow to see if as good as I remember.

Green pomolos

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BSSEA. HK 3

Tuesday – rain finished.

Met a local on the elevator. American woman living here for the past couple of years. Some interesting comments:

1. USA press used to exaggerate the situation here, but now getting worse and coverage is closer to fact.

2. Friend of hers came in from the Mainland – meaning China – and her friend expected, based on how news coverage is in China, to be in the midst of constant protests and disruptions.

3. Main effect of the protests on those living here and the tourists has been the inconvenience of public transportation and road closings.

Walking banyon, from Nathan road, just cause I like it

She got pancreatitis here and spent 24 days in a private hospital. Bill was one tenth of USA. Procedures were offered with prices: your CT scan will be $350, OK?

QB on Star Ferry, Tree above after arrival on Nathan Road

Beer at the penninsula. Stopped into the Peninsula Hotel, one I visited often 25 + years ago. Clearly maintained. Notice the persons opening the doors, colonial.

Lobby of Peninsula

Star Ferry Water tour of harbor. Usual tour, this one with fewer comments about each structure on the water. The harbor here was mentioned as one of the three best deep water ports, San Fran and Rio in Brazil being the others.

Few places to get Rx drugs, have not seen pharmacies. Asked concierge about it, mentioned only a few places. Separate system of course for Chinese medicine.

Virtually no people begging people begging or homeless on the streets here.

View from the Peak, private communication
One dinner dish, yes Japanese pumpkin and asparagus and more ….
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