May 5 and May 6 and 7, 2008
Route to Passau mostly paved; beautiful views of newly furrowed or sprouting fields and the widening Donau. Rode in circles for a while before getting on the right route. More water activity and huge lock crossing the Danube to enter Passau (photo).
The ride into Passau is rather a letdown after the wonderful bikeway out of Vilshofen. The city is industrialized on its western end and not at all a charming Bavaian area. Gets lovely when entering the altstadt.
Passau is an old city (in the old town). The narrow, twisting, cobbled streets normally seen only in films, are real here. Salt sticks in bakeries, ornate cakes and tortes and tea in glass are getting more common.
A film crew was filming the narrow streets as we arrived. Could not get our bikes through the alley way as a taxi, probably a prop, was wedged between the buildings; could not even walk through without taking off the taxi mirror. We went around the block to gain access. The film crew has taken over the Residenz Platz with many caravans and their own food on wheels as well as portable toilets. Tried to ask a question but they were too important for me and just brushed me off.
The Dom here is larger than the one in Osterhofen but not as well decorated. The artist brothers, Asam, did the frescos and carvings in Osterhofen but not here. The Dom here has the largest organ (really five organs strung or attached together into a single one) in Europe and a daily fantastic recital each day at noon. We went, naturlich! 17000 pipes. The bass was a bit overpowering for the size, a full sized Dom. The treble was great. For those who will meet up with us in California you will be able to hear the two CDs Sharon obtained, one of Holiday Music and one Mozart.
Used the post office to send some of our warmer stuff back as the weather is breaking. The German Post was privatized 15 years ago and is a joint venture with DHL. Very efficient, good packaging materials, easy forms and very nice and helpful.
On the more personal side the cortisone shot has not been a full success. I can bike all day without difficulty but walking has gotten increasingly painful. Shot started to dissipate after about two weeks and now seems to have lost its efficacy. Drugs are the only solution mitigator for now; they help but do nearly elliminate the pain. Sharon's leg is not good when biking all day but is fine when walking all day, just the reverse. Such is the way of the Buddha.
Brought to you by Tip Top Tea (The Tea of Record). Our new Glass Tea blend is a clear white estate tea through which to see the Truth.
Dinner at the Ratskeller, a beautiful old building with vaulted ceilings and paintings on the wall. King Ludwig of Bavaria seems to be like the Bonnie Prince Charlie of the region. He shows up on many walls and plaques.
There have been some email responses to the questions posed earlier.
Tom gave a complete history of the transformation that occured after the 30 years war and how Islam influenced the onion domes.
Jane H and Bobby gave good explanations on the egg yolks.
Jane H gave a partial answer ( I believe there is much more to the road quality than the amount of heavy trucks) on the roads. Sharon believes not having raccoons blocking the drains (as we do in Palo Alto), helps with drainage.
Dee believes much is related to the water, especially the bread and maybe other items more obscure.
After a rest day and a picnic dinner we will be on the road again, about half way to Linz.
Tried to set up this blog entry with t-mobile roaming hot spot but the connection or some other problem is so slow that flickr times out. So, this post is without the pictures – will upload them to flickr when I get a good connection.
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