A major thunderstorm passed over last night. Severe warnings. Left the morning 10 degrees cooler, windy, and almost cloudless sky.

Rural Vermont is as empty as expected. Farms, lovely lakes and rivers, I am on the missisquoi, vertical hills on one of the main highways, and churches and more churches. Rural areas seem to always have more churches than people.

Good nature trail along the river. Explored only a bit as I don't like to leave a loaded bike.

Grey gables inn for tonights B&B. Historic Victorian with plans by Palister and Palister. 1888. Floor plans without upgrades sold by mail for 25 cents. This building is the last one remaining for the t this plan as the architects house, same plan, burned down. Run by the former manager of the Oakland coliseum. He definitely belongs in the hospitality business; he even did all my laundry!

Richford is booming or will be some, unrecognizable 18 months according to the proprietor. Lots of business from the 330 miles of maintained ski trials, biking and kayaks on the 770 mile river passage across the street.

The entire town smells like cow manure.

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