Friday/Saturday, August 27/28, 2010; Espalion to Golinhac to Conques; cooler than 42C but still too warm; better today; still sick.
Happy Birthday to me and thanks to St. Jacques/Jacmo/Jacob/Iago/James/Jimmy/Great Atuin, there are birthday miracles to report:
1. France received its allotted annual EU consignment of staplers and we got one! Ditto plug adapters. KB finally glutted on frites. Spoiled by catsup.
Hiked from Espalion to Estaing. Should have been easy except certain pilgrims blindly followed the signs instead of the maps, which would have showed me a nice flat road, and was forced to climb what was effectively a 2mile vertical wall of red dirt with few footholds. After a few feet, realized error, but was too afraid to roll back down so had to keep going. Near death at top (guidebook: "good views all round." Idiots!). Staggered into Estaing, lovely town (see photos, apparently the town council thinks so too). Met Ian (intrepid Aussie pilgrim, bothered by no road), who could not believe I had climbed the stupid hill. Even he had wisely taken the road. We were also concerned about Ann and two German pilgrims (Erika and Trautha??) who had not yet arrived (I'm pretty slow). After being told that an empty table for 6 could not be used because we were three, we sat around. Ann staggered in about 30min later, having been suckered by the same hill. She claimed to have climbed it literally on hands and knees because of the backpack weight. The Germans turned up after a bit, also sucker punched and not impressed by the views. Taxi for me to Golinhac via bike repair truck. Couldn't walk any more.
Shout out to Bob: 1) staplers are used by pilgrims to keep map pages in order, 2) you mean Hugo can turn around in your shower without the curtain sticking.
Today (8/28) an "easy" walk to Conques, yet another UNESCO site and imaginary medieval village (see photo). Guidebook, which lies like a rug, said it was about13 miles. GPS showed 17.5 with a 2 mile steep downhill from St Marcel (the REAL pilgrim way). Note: ST. Marcel had very vigilant chickens. Made it, but now can only limp. Beautiful city with important Cathedral containing relics (v.important to have relics) of St. Foy, a 12 year old 3rd C (or thereabouts), typically grisly martyr: decapitated-although no explanation why unless you fork out 6Euros to see the reliquary and some other stuff.
Good photo of St. Peter with cockerel from some other church.
Shout-out to NOLA. During hike, dreaming of alleged 3-star hotel (standards low in France). Imagine my surprise and delight when we discovered our 3-star "upgrade" was a metal FEMA prefab without soap, towels, etc. In a campground. No restaurant. Not amused. Made up for it with good cheese and a superb melon (Charentais?) from epicerie for dinner.
Shout out to Stephen Colbert: to Threatdown List add 1) mountains, 2) squatters (FR toilets).
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