Boog's Blog

14 September. Perfect weather.

During breakfast struck up a conversation with the producer of a French romantic comedy being shot in a nearby town. She went to UCLA as there are no French schools teaching the art of film making other than a few styles. Now an executive producer for France 6. After an interesting conversation about the technical and business of film making in France she invited me to the set.

A nice bike ride to the town of Foures – another arcaded town, round this time. She spent many months looking for a town like this as it fit her script. Charming, a boulangerie across from a cafe – as in the script – and other features. The town was watching of course. Spoke with the makeup person, the director, another producer, and got a tour of the equipment. Fifty two people on the set. Cost for 90 minutes will be 1.5 M Euro about half of what a US production would cost. The main reason is that in the US a finance syndicate joins for syndication and eventual worldwide distribution. Not possible in French.

Interesting High Def digital camera. Used to be expensive film but one had to stop filming early due the light. Now can shoot late and the increased cost goes to overtime for all. Will take four weeks to shoot the 90 minutes.

The pictures for this side adventure as well as the Greco-Roman one to follow are on my Nexus. Tried to email them but as they run just over 20MB many servers bounced them. Earthlink, flickr, wind stream, blackberry and a number of others.

After joining the road again stopped at Séviac, a Greco Roman excavation site that has been worked on for about 25 years. A large villa from fourth century ( a peaceful time in the Roman Empire) that was well used until the Seventh. (Pre Medieval period for those who are avoiding or are tired of the Middle Ages stuff ) Fully preserved mosaics. About a two acre site under constant work, one sees the exaction, as well as the various rooms including the hot rooms and private baths. Well worth the 4 Euro admission. A nice piece on a ball of string.

Undulating ride to Eauze ( pronounced A oze). Similar town to many we have seen lacking a wall or a spectacular cathedral – clearly getting spoiled. Place we are staying at is a dump. In the literature it said two stars. I would say minus two stars. Even though dinner is paid for we will not eat here. People were rude and other guests, French, confirmed and have similar feelings.

Ate a simple dinner of omlets and had wine, water, beer, and coffee. The drinks, as usual, cost more than the simple dinner.

There are 15 pictures labeled foures and or serviac The connection here is too flaky – sending his from Nogoro- another town on the route. Nice church here with some frescoes Not much else according to the tourist office.

To see the pics go to

Should be the leading set or today’s date ( 15 September 2010) if you are reading this in the future.

13 September Cool morning with nice overcast then sunny and warm in the afternoon

Not very clean socks. Still coughing stuff, but incremental improvement. White shirt in need of Oxyclean.

QB headed East before heading west and met me in Larrissingle, a 13th century perfect
bastide (defensive) town, wall intact and with a full moat and covered drawbridge. Early morning, the town was defended primarily by fog and pigeons.

The church, as mentioned in the KB post is pre-Gothic with Roman arches and small windows (from the days that it was thought that the wall could not support itself if windows were large). When you enter this church a light goes on and Gregorian chants are piped in. A bit spooky and maybe a little cheesy. Window glass was new and one pane seemed to contained a small gaggle of stained glass geese.

KB stopped on the way out to visit shop that sells only the local Armagnac. As this town is in the center of Armagnac wines a purchase was necessary as well as some degustation. First the KB sniffed some ten year old stuff, very perfumed, and then tested a 30 year old “digestif”. Very smooth.

The vendor spoke good English, so KB got a good lesson about Floc and Armagnac. Floc is like a sweet wine except that it is a mixture of grape juice and alcohol. The white stuff and the red stuff are different grapes. The name of the grape used in the white Floc did not register. For the red Floc it contains Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a third grape.

Bought a small tasting bottle of the 10 year old Armagnac as well as tasting bottles of the white and red Floc. We had our white aperitif before starting this blog. 17% alcohol and tasting a good deal like a sweet Sauterne. If one likes sweet white smooth wines this is excellent. Said to be only an aperitif I think it would be a fine after dinner drink. Further reports on the red and the Armagnac after consumption.

The Chemin was not too arduous today, mainly on decent roads and wide paths through fields. QB trailed or passed a number of other walkers. Stopped for a small cheese and apple snack before completing the schlep to Montreal.

Sat around in Montreal with a Canadian couple, a French woman and a perfect French man. On French TV there is always a man with gray hair or white hair, looking perfect, and holding forth with immense authority on various topics – their equivalent of a talking head – and implying that each word is carries great weight; comes with many facial gestures. Our French pelerin would have been perfect in this role.

We discussed the strike (he thought that the society should not change and that retirement should be early and paid for by getting the rich to pay more and especially not sheltering their income in Swiss and the retired not to leave the country with the funds and spend them elsewhere) and working (he, like the KB, always wanted to retire and saw little value in work). Coffee, beers, tea and French lessons. The bi-lingual Canadians helped with the difficult parts. Not a bad afternoon. Also learned a recipe from a Frenchwoman which may remind some of the late, great Peter Cook and Dudley Moore’s Frog a la Peche (or possibly Peche a la frog): peel and halve peach, remove pit and replace with prune (pruneaux d”Agen bit in this region). Close up peach, add honey and almond paste and steam in oven (I think) in water bath ’til tender. Serve. Eat.

The off to the perfect Residence d’hôte. Four years old, a time share built by the municipality, we have a two bedroom suite with excellent facilities, fine swimming pool and a jacuzzi kept at 30C! Once again too cold. The proprietor said that in winter he would raise it to 37 or maybe 38. Dinner at a local restaurant included a nice dorade, pleasant change from the usual confit de canard.

Tomorrow, Eauze.

13 September.  Morning cool and foggy

Sitting in this bastide town 13th century. Sent a reference yesterday for the medievalists.  It is far far better in person.  Totally deserted now as the few shops have not opened. Waiting for coffee and the QB walking here. Had to see this place together.

The church is the best example I have seen of pre Gothic design.  Vertical walls with small windows ( it was believed that walls could not support a large window ) rounded arches.

Took no pictures here as it would be wasted on my Nexus. QB has the camera pics. 

Moat is complete as are all the buildings. Hard to know how much restoration was done.  Like a perfect picture village for a Renaissance Faire. 

Did some zigzag riding, apparently a French word too, some closed château with a garden like those done by Notre. 

Onto Monreal with its arcades and many pelerins converging before going to our Residence d’hote which turned. Out to be a very modern and comfortable time share apartment. 

12 September. Cool quite windy then hot

Was advertised as a very hilly and steep ride from Lectoure but a strong westerly wind was not mentioned.  Pedal down grades that should have been joy rides.

QB arrived at the cathedral too late to see and listen to the Mass.  After a short parable and a very long seamiinly endless explanation of its meaning by the head priest got to hear the big organ and group singing. The organ and voices are just special in these wide open Gothic buildings. Have been enamored with then since hearing Beethoven at the Madaline a hundred years ago.

Condom was a Gaulish area and later a commercial success from its position at the confluence of two rivers, baise and another. City was destroyed during the religious wars. Much has been restored.

Vineyards and Armagnac.  Here is where the later seems to be centered. Might be time to try Floc.

Richilieu beheaded the Count of Armagnac. 

Canal boats for hire in the river.

11 September warm and sunny

Rest day. 

15th century cathedral available elsewhere or on web.  To many this is past the medieval period. Academic wars have been fought for less.

Washing at the gas station. Picture sent earlier.  Quite convenient and once again we have clean duds to start the next section

Perfect lunch. Really perfect. Wonderful tomatoes, generous amount, with very fresh mozzarella, oil, Basil and a side of frites.  Perfect.

Bought two large tomatoes for afternoon snack. Whole Foods would charge $4 to $6 per pound.  In the store with hand picked service, were not allowed to touch the fruits, about 2 euro per kilo. Roughly a dollar a pound. Peaches similarly priced. Fruit and veggies are almost free. Coffee costs more than Starbucks, as does tea, or Perrier. 

Dinner done by chef with Grande Toque

September 10, 2010

Early am very Keats, cleared and a lot warmer later.

Unclean socks. Still wheezing but not as much.

Slacker pilgrim had a great walk yesterday along the Canal between two rivers, Tarn and Garonne, although some confusion in the sacking party over which river was which (canal obvious).

Path flat for a change so was able to make decent time to Auvillar. Only wildlife was squashed hedgehog, which we don’t see in NA (that is, squashed or 3-D).

Now in departemente of Gers, which is also Gascony.

Today was hugely agricultural. Took taxi to Miradoux, then hiked over hill and dale and field to Lectoure (naturally on a huge hill). Close to 10 miles. Most of the land I passed by or stomped (frequently) on was cultivated down to the last meter. Not much livestock visible except the occasional Xtreme free range chicken (well, pigeons). Big crop is sunflowers. This time of year most looking sadly down.

Also saw what looked like (high bush?) blueberries, but wasn’t sure enough to sample. Perhaps a gardener in the crowd can identify them. Tomato, ficelle and young cantal for road snack. Tomato not that great. Lectoure appears in the distance after a certain point on the road. It looks about five minutes away, but actually takes over an hour to reach the center. Pilgrims find this quite common en route. Cathedral and spa town; home of Armagnac. Good size hospital to go with the spa (thermal baths for the cure). No laundry in town center–very disappointing because certain items now quite unpleasant. Lots of British here. Some chat about hotel having Grand Toque chef. Tomorrow, rest day and laundry search.

Shout Out to Herb: here’s a fifteenth-to-nineteenth century church, St Blandine in Castet-something. Good paint.

10 September cool and then warm

Gained less than 10 meters over an almost 40km ride but due to steep rolling hills ascended 500 meters. Nice if a bit challenging ride.

More medieval villages like St Antoine and Flammens. Both with old churches.

Stopped to get some dark bread and fruit and ended up with fig and apricot bread, quite nice. Gave some to a trio of folks from Brittany.  After asking them if they were almost English they warmed up, maybe it was the bread.  Taught me a new French word. In Brittany they say kenavo instead of au revoir.

Passed many vineyards to have something to show other than old buildings.  Landscape of big rolling hills with agriculture other than soy or corn.

Lectoure is another walled town with an old cathedral.  Sitting inside composing while listening to the organ and choir practice. Turns out that a Bratislava group is doing a Vivaldi and many other pieces here tonight. 21 euro per person.  Practice sounds great.

Lectoure was the main residence of the counts of Armagnac during the middle ages. After that same story of 100 years war and religious wars. Then like the other Bastides towns prosperity. 

Got here just in time for the market and some nice samples. This market had a truck with shoes.  

Went to the thermal bad but had to leave.  Water temp 32!!! Incredible.  Barely skin temp. 

9 September.  Cool overcast some sprinkles.
              
Imagine Cezanne rising a bit late for him and going out with his tools. On his left is the Garonne river.  Then 10 meters of forest and shrub, a paved tow path for the Canal entre les deux mers,  and then the fine canal one his right. Walking towards him are two Babushkas covered in bright colors from head to foot, scarfs on their heads but faces uncovered.

They pass by all too quickly to be captured.

The ride and walking path from Moissac to Valance, about six km from Auvillar, is on the tow path.  A few parts of the Erie canal are still like this, far too parts.

Short side trip into Valance d’Agen. Church pictured. grand cafe and a pain au raison! 

QB walking path pictured as well as the large Garonne. Tarn also crossed.

Auvillar’s church is, like moissac called St Pierre.  It is part of the Abby and has a similar history of Roman to post middle ages. Restorations, wars, religious wars, and prosperity from traffic on Tarn.

Sept. 8, 2010; rain, drizzle, sun, not too hot
Still wheezing, but less than last week; clean socks!

Shout out to greve general! Yesterday there was a national strike, including Post Office (Monday was a “fermeture exceptionnel,” presumably to conserve energy for the strike) to protest the plan to raise retirement age from 60 to 62. Second strike since we’ve been here and still a couple weeks to go. Awesome.

Yesterday (to Lauzerte) was a pouring rain and mud slog. Boots not quite as waterproof as advertised. Paths were basically up and downhill streams. Disgusted all round. Lauzerte is another perfect medieval town perched on a very high hill. Since the hotel was a dump smelling poignantly of local farms at the base of the hill, I missed the town due to fatigue. On the other hand, after dinner (sucked) we observed what appeared to be a philosophical version of rugby. We stood and watched for a while, waiting for action, but the coach (or whoever) seemed to be instructing in a loud voice and moving people around. At no time was there any team action. I assume after a while everyone went home since it was getting late.

Today, did not want to miss Moissac, so took a bus/van, which cost Euro5.30. There were two passengers including me. While riding, pondered extreme free range chickens of France (one was dashing like track athlete through stubbled field). If chicken “accidentally” becomes roadkill, does driver claim chicken or does farmer rush out and grab deceased for soup? Does driver have to pay?

Moissac has a famous medieval abbey church and cloister (“le plus beau du monde”). Includes many interesting wood/polychrome figures and hand-painted walls and arches, including the ceiling (see photos). Moissac not perched on a hill and has a canal for the Tarn and Garonne running through.

Cloister (not pronounceable in French) has many decorative column capitals, is beautifully proportioned with pigeons (see photos). Tourist Office has stranglehold on visiting rights and charges to see the cloister (we received pilgrim discount).

Tea at a Salon de The. Oddly, there was no strong black tea other than Earl Grey; enjoyed a large cafe creme. When arrived in UK, will spend several hours at Bob’s slurping PG Tips or Barry’s, whatever they have.

Watched meat delivery truck double park. Truck was width of entire narrow street. When the rear door was open it nearly decapitated someone on the sidewalk. Driver began hauling out huge sides of meat. Cars piling up behind.

Tomorrow, Auvillar. Supposed to be a flat canal path walk. Auvillar is perched on a hill, of course.

7 September raining and even more raining.

QB and I set off in opposite directions this morning. She by the muddy path and I by a nice easy road, which after about 15km climbed straight up at 8% or more into the old medieval town of lauzerte.

Here we find the beginnings of the Castlenaus, a type of urbanization that preceded the Bastides.

Lauzerte is one of the “beautiful cities of France ” an appellation much coveted.  The name means light or enlightenment and was another important stop for the pilgrims. Another place where they had to climb up 100 plus meters for a safe place to rest their heads.

Buildings and streets from 13th to 17th century.

The paintings in the church are by Joseph ingress the father of the more famous son.

This is very much a town of artists. A highlight is the jardin de pelarain. A tour of the route with a maze and plaques of poetry. Multi language.  Peaceful and appropriate. 

Picnic lunch and then to hotel.