Boog's Blog

12 October Nippy in the morning and warming in the afternoon

Took the road today. Not a doubt in my mind about which route I would take today, not after yesterday.

To readers who have been following this adventure on a daily basis your day of grace is over and back to the regular routine. A days grace on a pilgrimage of sorts.

Hardly could have been better today. The famed flat Meseta is far from flat but wonderful to ride. Two nice 100 meter or so climbs, a few shorter rises, some long descents with a tailwind, lovely scenery, no traffic on small roads or on the National (auto route nearby and today is Columbus day, a full holiday in Castile, even the pharmacies are closed; he returned in 1497 with riches to be greeted by his well known sponsors Ferdinand and Isabella).

We are staying in Castrogeriz (or with a j, have seen it both ways), a lovely terraced hillside town. Quite steep with old cobbles and fine old buildings and a large number of churches for such a small town. Supposedly here since Celtiberian times when, from its heights, it guarded the roads to the Galician gold mines. Fought over many times, always a treat for the locals, and changed hands many times. Around 975 settled into Christian hands.

A fuero (a founding document of sorts issued by the ruler) was granted. We have seen many mentioned but most are the usual boring ones of land grants, taxes waived, labor promised, roads opened. This one had two unusual provisions.

-A new form of knighthood to anyone who could afford a horse.

– A provision that killing of Jews would be treated the same as killing a Christian (no mention of Muslims). A building remains that is locally called the synagogue.

Big excitement: the hotel has a dryer (also a washer, but it is broken) and we can hand wash our stuff and dry it instead of hanging on the bike or backpack. We are especially looking forward to Barcelona because Google tells us the only self-service laundry in Spain can be found there. Better than ham.

As for the road choice, it was dictated by what turned out to be a poor choice yesterday. Yesterday, decided to try to bike the camino as it was to be nice. Was excellent until about 8 kilometers from Hornillos (furnace). Turned into a muddy Roman road with large stones and a big 100 meter climb. The climb was even worse than I might have expected and about half way up I realized why, a flat tire. Rain, mud, and a flat. The Evil Trinity of cycle touring.

Tried to remove tire from rim but could not. A German youth stopped to help and he too failed; my levers broke. Just on too tight. Walked it down a dangerous road of rocks and mud for about 3-4 kilometers into Hornillos. Two nice Spanish lads, big and strong, with good tools tried to remove the tire. Nope. Tried really hard and finally gave up; especially when my brakes broke during the effort.

Nothing to do but to take a taxi back to Burgos to the Decathlon, a large sports store similar, but much bigger, than REI, it has a good repair shop. Decathlons are all over France and Spain. Very friendly, helpful and professional.

New tube, brakes, quite a bit less cash in our pockets we headed back to the small rural town where we had lodgings. QB joined me on the expedition as she arrived in Hornillos just before the taxi arrived. QB had a bad day, has caught Jeff’s cold, but worse, her knee gave out part way through the days walk and a taxi was called. As knee will not allow walking at reasonable speeds for the appropriate distance, this may be the end of the Camino walk for her. Very disappointed, but is consulting with Dr. H.

The rural place did not look encouraging from the outside but inside the owner turned out to have outstanding hospitality skills and made us comfortable, had our luggage in the room, tried to help in any way he could, and provided a fine dinner of fish soup, cheese omelette, pork loin and desert. All properly prepared.

Naturally no wi-fi or even data connectivity in this very rural location of Isar, about 2-3 kms
from Hornillos.

Naturally I took the road today.

10 October partly cloudy

Last evening we had dinner with two women from Perth. Both doing the Camino in parts. As they are government workers every seven years they get a three month sabbatical and a 22% bonus pay so that they …… may go home to visit the mother country, England. Long maternity, sabbaticals and a country that accepts three month to one year abscenses with full job guarantees. Nice place it seems.

Went to the cathedral and paid our entrance fee. Well worth it. Repeat, well worth it. Having seen a number of cathedrals and monasteries on this trip this one stands out. Maybe Leon and Santiago will be in the same league of “stuff” There is so much to see there – if one is interested in a lesson in medieval architecture and painting one just walks from chapel to chapel.

The cathedral started in 1024 and has been in constant addition and renovation. One walks from the 12th century to the present century chapels and works in a nice linear fashion. The quality of the stone carvings and art work is overwhelming.

For the mediavalists we have put up 37 pictures on the flickr site.
Many are details of the work. Dated 10 October and called photos 1-37. Trying out a new flickr uploader.

We lucked out with the timing. Went to noon mass. Heard the Organ, latin chants in the side censor, a very Baroque chapel larger than most of the churches we have visited. 14 priests on the dais, dressed in 5 different garbs. A formal mass.

Then off to have some tea and pastry. Found a chocalateria, a large chain in Spain. George and Bob and Libby and several other chocoholics would have loved it,

more of same chocolates on the menu

This being Sunday and a festival holiday, here, as Columbus returned to Castille in 1497 to meet and greet his patrons, it is a big wedding day. Wedding cakes in the shops.

And for those who believe we are not really here together (though this could be photoshopped) here are Boogs in front of the cathedral

And tonight, as a change from the standard fare, off to try Paella at a local restaurant.

October 9 Rain and wind followed by more rain and more wind.

Not the best day for a bike ride and it turned out even worse.

Yesterday’s ride on the N120 was terrible. Trucks and double trucks passing in convoy at 120 km/ph…. large and very dangerous partial vacuum. So, today I looked for a better route. Found one not listed in any of the guide books or reference material it is was certainly better than any of their routes.

Got into Burgos in a heavy rain but found the way in easy as there was a bike lane marked to central city. As a very minor turning, I was going barely faster than walking, my bike skidded out on a slippery patch of pavement. Down I went. Landed squarely on my left hip. Some nice folks helped me us and I tried to get to the cathedral before the leg stiffened and the pain became too bad.

I do not think anything is broken or dislocated; very lucky as I landed on a hard stone suffice. Very much swollen ( two hours of icing before I sat down to write this ) and significant amount of Alleve. I can only hobble. Hopefully a rest day here will give it a chance to heal sufficiently to do the next leg.

QB’s leg is still hurting but hurting less. The rest here will do her good too.

We conked out for three hours with the ice on me and blankets on QB.

Lots of history to Burgos but as Wikipedia covers it well, and the intricacies of the fighting between Castille, Leon, Navarre, Napoleon (later of course) are best left to their summaries.

The really big deals here are the old castle ( defensive from the 9th century ) and the catedral.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgos

Monastery pics and tourist shot of Burgos.

8 October foggy and cool turning windy and sunny. 1.2 ESB

QB wisely took the several advice given and took a taxi.

KB had two rides. Half excellent on Camino roads and side roads and half very poor sharing a national road with convoys of double trucks; being passed downhill required stopping each time to let them pass.

San Juan was a helper to Santo Domingo and became a major force in his own way.  Many bridges and roads and hospitals. Pope gave him special protection. Local lords gave him lands to finance the good works and increase their commerce and population. 

12th century monastery here under repair for 35 plus years. QB has pictures; no net connection here to transfer them.

At breakfast we met an Italian walker returning from Santiago. He has been walking the various Camino roads for 10 years. Showed us a newspaper article ( he carries a very big scrapbook ) article about him. 9800 kms so far. On the Spanish news this evening.

Meeting more Americans as well as more people in general. Canadians outnumber Americans according to the local statistics.

At lunch we tried the Danone branded Cuajada served as usual with honey. Can now pronounce it well enough to order it with some comprehension. 

Through the fog you might be able to see a small monastery built directly into the hill.

7 October Partly cloudy still warm but getting cooler as we ascend the heights

An unusually bad ride today. Really the first very poor ride of the adventure. Nothing to see, the same nothing QB saw yesterday (yesterday I had a good zigzag and interesting sights) with no real alternatives except the National highway. Many large trucks, convoys, etc. Got off a few times to ride the rocky Camino. The large double trucks tailgate one another and leave a nasty partial vacuum when they rapidly pass by.

The morning started nicely with a change of pace. As QB’s leg is still quite swollen thought it best to take the morning to see Santo Domingo, the cathedral, and enjoy the four star Parador.

Shots of yet another retablo, this one from the cathedral at Santo Domingo. Pics not included.

Santo Domingo is named after a person who for many of his 100 years devoted himself to helping pilgrims make the trip more easily. A bridge in town (bridges are a real big thing in the 11th century), a hospital, accommodations, food, comfort items.

In Belorado there are two churches, each open half the year. Unusual set up. Each has excellent stork nests on top, picture included.

Just before Belorado we passed into Castile y Leon.

One of the more pleasant aspects of traveling is Spain is the meal time. In France if QB and I met after 13:00 or 13:30 we could not eat together; all restaurants closed. In Spain as long as we meet after 6 am we can be well fed.

Times of the day: We were instructed at a local panaderia that Buenos Dias ends only after Comida (which starts at 14:00, see earlier posts for full time schedule); only then does it become Buenos Tardes. As to Noches, after about 20:30.

May not be any blog entry published tomorrow as we climb even higher to a really remote village, maybe smaller than a village about half way to Burgos. Will get to above 1100 meters so it may be a lot colder.

QB notes on the French: while checking into parador yesterday, a Frenchwomen (whose English was less than or equal to my French) behind us asked where we were from. I said “U.S.” She said she thought I was English because I had an English accent. I assured her I was not a Brit and had an American accent. She, with some authority, stated that I did have an English accent; she recognized it because she had been to London and, American accents were too difficult to understand (citing Kentucky as, apparently, a prime example). The conversation ended there (before my head started hurting as much as my knee). Best to cede the supreme knowledge of the French.

Bus tomorrow and next day with lots of Aleve. Hope to walk again after Burgos.

6 October sunny, nice weather, 1.2 ESB. Maybe for cycling, but too hot for walking, and no shade to rest in.

QB walk of about 15mi summarized here: Najera–>nothing–>Azofra–>nothing–>nothing–>golf course/Ciruena/nothing–>nothing–>nothing–>defective leg stops working–>Santo Domingo–>beer.

For those who may have marched with Glen Cook’s “Black Company” series, the terrain today resembled some of his world.

Life on the road. At rest stop before the golf course, QB was offered some cucumber by pelerins from Nanaimo (they were surprised I knew of that place). In trade, QB offered them a choice of yogurt. They chose the tastiest Muesli flavor and QB had to make do with the plain yogs (no good deed, etc…, but maybe a quality reincarnation?). A further offer of apple slice was made and accepted by QB.

QB had a very hard last few kms due to a very bad leg. Limping.

KB did a bit of zigzagging (zigzaguear en Español ) with a side trip to the old Monastery Yuso.
Standard story of Shepard seeing something and then handling out miracles. Became a good spot for a monastery and then everyone (Navarre and Castille) wanted the properties so privileges were granted and the place grew.

Once again, for the medievalists among the gentle readers, 8-9 pictures have been put up on the Flickr site.

The pictures include some interesting shots of illustrated books, hymnals, the actual hymnal books, shots of the monastery itself. There is one painting with Hebrew near the top of the picture.

Herb, Moshe, or maybe our Basque scholar Bob can translate and explain the image.

Here is a picture of the Sacristy:

Boogs as Pelerins:

Lunch was at a four star Parador near the unvisited Cathedral (2+Euros). After the monastery visits and many retablos we took a break from from the spectacle; Burgos is just days away and the books advise we need two to three days in the cathedral, apart from the other sites.

Jamon Iberico was purchased at great expense. Served with a salsa (closely resembling aioli) made of eggs, oil, salt, pimento, and a small amount of garlic. One takes the salsa and puts it on the provided toast slices and then piles on the ham. We removed much of the fat so we had, on average, about a half portion by weight. Not the least bit stringy, very smooth. Quite enjoyable and a nice treat.

We are staying at another Parador, the one QB sent a geotagging photo of (QB has been taking a picture of most places we stay with the Blackberry which has a geotagging feature so we have a map of our trip). This photo is of the four star parador in the city center.

Wasteland view from QB walk:

5 October sunny day, perfect banana fish weather for a bike ride. No wind.

While QB walked the way I tried to avoid the Camino path. Much prefer the road as is does not disturb the walkers and does not rattle my bones and bike with the rocks and boulders and dirt. Today it was hard to avoid parts of the Camino.

Once again KB carefully plotted the route using the info from the tourist office and the panoply of books and maps. Once again, dead ends or roads that should exist but have now merged with the grand auto route. Founds ways around, mostly, but at times had to ride the Camino itself.

Ride though Rioja is a ride through the vineyards on the hills. Many hills ( 1.1 ESB today) with many smiling grapes. It is vendage time and some workers are out collecting. QB got a picture.

One stop along the was was to Navarette, a hilltop town (naturally ) with a church reputed to have one of the best, if not the best, retablos in Spain. Will let the art experts judge from the included photos. Paid a Euro to illuminate the church so a to be able to see them and later photograph them. QB’s photos were taken when the church was not lit; they were dumped. These are from the Nexus so not as fine grained and missing much of the real beauty.

with some putti

When we met up we had some excellent, very light and not sweet, Rioja Rosado with our tapas lunch. KB Spanish failed today when he thought he was getting calamari and got tripe instead. The other dishes were excellent with the veal with pimento leading a good pack.

Then off to the Monastery of Santa Maria la Real – a good find with a soap opera story. Started in 1054 via a vision by a real king its property was fought over for centuries. Included a bishop assaulting some monks to get some reliquaries, a bishop being excommunicated, a pope sitting out the fight for a long time, and some wonderful stone work.

So as not to boor the non-medievalists in the group pictures taken at the Monastery are posted on flicker.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/boogskbqb/ Titled Monastery of Santa Maria la Real in case they are not longer the lead photos.

Here is the setting on Najara facing red sandstone hills similar to Sedona in Arizona.

4 October partly cloudy but very windy, from the direction we will be going tomorrow

Rest day in this largish (150K population) city.

Fried Milk, leche fritas, was on the buffet this morning. The NH group of hotels offers a good buffet breakfast, very similar to the German breakfasts we got so used to several years ago. Taste was similar to a only very slightly sweetened custard. See pic.

The cathedral (shout out to Herb: mostly modern Baroque, not medieval) is well dressed in frescos and a large gold colored redondo. Pics were obtainable today.

Visited the tourist office to find a restaurant for tonight. Asked for one that was non-smoking. This flummoxed them for a bit and the two workers discussed the problem with facial gestures indicating that this was not the kind of request they often received. Came up with one. Agreed that it is the only one in this city.

Also asked them about the local food specialities.

Menuestra Venduras – basically a plate of veggies, green ones, that they say is a stew but is more like a very light soup. Have had it three times. Always very bland and we believe it always had canned or frozen veggies. QB ate less than a third the last time she had it. Might be good if veggies were fresh and broth well made.

Meat. Yes, the usual beef and veal are the specialities here.

Potatoes, fried of course and good of course.

Mushrooms filled with garlic and oil and shrimp, pictured

Wine was not mentioned but clearly this is what to have. Red, white and rosado are all available from the shelves in stores.

We have been eating the Pintxos with much delight. Ham slices on a bread, smoked salmon topped with medium sized shrimp, torta of eggs and potatoes, large shrimp topped with onions. all had good oil on them. Hard to go wrong with the above. Building up a storehouse of Tapas dishes in case there is a tapas party in the future a nos casa o nos amigos

3 October overcast, humid and a bit warm

Today we left the Basque region and entered Rioja. The dual language disappeared immediately and welcoming signs from Rioja emerged.

We leave behind the Basque wines and a few nice food dishes. The wines appear similar to the lighter Zinfandels of Napa; naturally much cheaper locally. Most dinners included the wine at no up charge. The purchased wines were good, not expensive for restaurant wine, in nice bottles but not significantly better than the table wine. Most of the Basque wines were around 12.5% alcohol, the way we prefer them.

Managed to climb the equivalent of 1.3 empire state buildings, that is how I think of the climbs now: how many ESB equivalents. Yesterday was only about 2/3 rds ESB.

The road out included a number of stops at hilltop villages, each with nice but closed churches from the 12th or 13th century. The one exception was the fine transitional village of Viana.

In the middle ages Viana was the last refuge in Navarra and, at about 8 km from Castile country it was the place to exchange Navarra money for the new local currency. No Navarra funds were usable in Castile or so the story goes. Naturally we know who the money changers were, one of the later religions that Sridar alluded to.

Going back to Sridar’s comment about being older is difficult. “Sanathan Dharma” means everlasting as I understand it so the religion we call Hindu ( wrong as Hindu is just the name of the people the Raj used to describe their subjects ) could be described as forever. Some references I have read in the past put the beginnings of the local religion around 3000 B.C.E. making it somewhat younger than that of the money changers of Viana, a walled city that still retains much of their wall.

Sridar or Randy or others better versed in the history of the Dharma might appropriately jump in here.

In Viana I got to watch a game of handball or jai-lai played with a very hard ball about the size of a cricket ball, on a Fronton court. Tried to take a video but my technology failed as there was too much sun for me to see the screen and I ended up with all wall or ground. Older men, very much obese, clearly very good, and very very winded after each difficult point. Crowd, including me, cheering them on with each fine shot.

Got to Logroño in time for noon mass. Wanted to hear the organ and the singing in a nice sized cathedral. Quite a beauty, no pics as yet as clearly could not take them during the service. Gold baroque front and well painted side naves. Overall a very good experience. One interesting part was that the Spanish was much clearer as the priest spoke his sermon very slowly and enunciated well. Noticed the same when QB and I went to Vespers in Conques. Might be a good way to learn a language.

Pintxos in Logroño: A joy. QB and I wandered the Tapas quarter, yes, there is part of the old city where the bars and restaurants that specialize in Tapas congregate. Fish ones, ham ones, mushroom one (basically escargot filling in a mushroom; filled with garlic and oil and topped with a small shrimp, one euro please), and on and on. Finished our first excursion there with outstanding shrimps (oil, salt, garlic lightly grilled), and fried calamari where the breading was so light to be almost not there, but the garlic and oil and salt clearly were present.

2 October overcast and windy (especially at 650 meters or higher) clearing to sunny and way too hot for walking

Unclean socks, two taped toes.

QB walked 13.5miles (felt like 20) of what turned out to be as interesting as walking across South Dakota, or maybe Nebraska, but with better colors. The last 12 km of her walk was shrub, scrub, harvested fields and a few close-to-harvest vineyards and no cover. First half of the walk included some reasonably nice small towns to break the scrubbiness. What the guidebook described as a “pleasant southeast wind” felt more like wind before a thunderstorm. Some toes on left foot going numb–like bicycle finger but not on hand.

KB bike ride similar except fewer small towns and lots of wind at the higher points; considered walking down some descents due to cross winds but managed to get down without incident.

Had a nice break in Los Arcos (named for the archers who saved the place during a war when Navarre, Basques and France were all fighting – all led by a king named Sancho). Navarre won, Basques were massacred. Permanent bad feelings. The break included my first octopus of the trip. QB limped in after many hours ready for rehydrating beer, no sea creatures.

Shout out to Bob M and Don for getting it right, Bob in about 10 seconds. Served in olive oil with lots of paprika. A bit expensive, about 2.5 times the other dishes available.

The large church here was open when KB arrived. Excellent example of Roman, Renaissance, and Baroque all in one building with the latter very much dominating. No pictures taken as expected QB to snap some upon arrival. Would have except that the church was locked by 3 pm, despite notice saying it was open until 8pm. Had a good cloister but not in the same league of filigree work as Pamplona.

Tomorrow, QB bussing out of Navarra to Logrono, capital of La Rioja region.

In Irache, one of the smaller villages there is the famous fountain of wine and water. One of the bodega’s offers both wind and water from a spout to all passers by. QB too a good shot of this well known watering hole before the long dry South Dakota section.