Boog's Blog

4 Oct. Finally cooler with some wind

Well, as many of you know I have had my hips fixed and can now walk. Unfortunately QB, an excellent walker, is now in pain with some sort of sharp nerve like spasms in her hip/leg area. Definitely not good. Hard to see her suffering; naturally she soldiers on.

Walk today is in the footsteps of James Herriot. Some of you may have read his books. QB has but not my genre. A fictional vet. Of large animals he treat the livestock and dealt with the foibles of the locals.

Very nice walk especially as it paralleled a number of streams and small rivers. Also goes through a country town, Thirsk. Just a good feeling town. Some towns are just that way.

Before setting out Welsh Rarebit with sweet onion chutney in the pictured Crown and Arms.

Staying in a pretentious former coaching inn, Feversham Arms. Has a hot tub but wants an additional 25£ per use. Not going to happen. Dinner decent but over the top inefficient service. The French do food service with half or fewer steps and more grace. Must of used at least 10 pieces of silverware before tea in the lounge. Petit Fours were chocolate bars, mini. Nope.

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3 October. Warm again, sunny afternoon

Took a city wander day. Bus to Newcastle, about an hours ride. Local bus.

Turns out it is the local equivalent of the cracker barrel. Many of the fellow riders shared information with the driver, local gossip, tidings. As public transport is free at age 60 there are many regular riders. One claimed she used the pass to go to London.

The navigated to hedge road, read very narrow, thoroughfare quite impressively. Personally I find them no fun unless they are straight roman ones. Otherwise too many blind turns, none with mirrors.

Haggis, as we are near the once feared Scots, can be found in the local Marks and Spencers.

Organ is from the 12th century cathedral that later became a parish church. The organ is newer of course. The retableau, not pictured here, looks similar to the ones we saw in Spain except here it appeared to be marble and not painted wood.

Naturally we had to see the “new” castle. Started in the 11th century just after William of Orange came to stay and later modified by it’s many owners. Not as impressive as Conwy.

Dinner. One of my favorites. Picnic from Waitrose. Smoke Salmon from Scotland, King prawns, russet and spartan apples, Camembert cheese (perfect due to QB selection, white center), and Henny’s cider.

Wait rose has 15-20 choices. We inquired about a suggestion. Well, none are my favorite as I come from Cornwall and prefer those. We wanted a dry one. He went through the characteristics of several until we settled on Henny’s At six percent and dry. We both pronounced it good but could not finish the largish bottle.

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2 October. Cloudy and then the rain snuck up when it was too late for gear.

Have accustomed ourselves to warm dry weather we did not take rain gear on the walk. I had a poncho in the car; QB preferred her polar tech jacket. Very windy.

More dry stone wall today. A very old wall, named Hadrian’s.

One approaches the major remaining section of the wall from a very straight Roman, now metaled (Brits seem to call Tarmac roads metaled ) road. It was the military road of course. The wall run on the top of an escarpment with a very steep drop off on the side facing Scotland.

The section pictured has a clear view of Scotland on a clear day.

Walking the wall it is hard to understand why it was built. The sheer drop and steep sides facing North would have been an almost impossible barrier. The three foot high wall could hardly have mattered. Can just imagine the labor force saying “what the Hades is Hadrian thinking?” maybe stronger thoughts and language.

Returned to Hexam to see the abbey church. Built as a cathedral Henry VIII took possession for it’s wealth. Romanesque in design.

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1 October warm with some clouds.

Headed up lake area to Lake Buttermere. Hilly drive with a pass, Honiston Pass, which has grades of 25% and 20% on theoretically two lane roads but barely wide enough for one car. Much jockey work when a bus came through the pass. Fortunately I did not have to stop uphill on a very steep grade – manual transmission.

Got to the car park and one could pay with credit card ( sorry card reader busted sign), phone (no one had service) or cash, 5£ for a few hours. The car park was pretty busy as many come here for this walk and other walks over the Honiston pass.

Another fine walk, we like the lake ones; reminded us of the walk around Jordan Pond in Acadia. Well graded one side and rocky on the other, after one is sucked in. No popovers.

Off to Hadrian’s wall area which is where we now are.

Hexham has a fine abbey, we are in a hotel just across from the abbey and the medieval marketplace.

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30 Sept. Very warm and sunny. Wore shorts for the walk.

Today, poshness, duck, Windermere, and a babbling brook, and Martins church.

Wandered towards Windermere first visiting Martin’s church, built 1486. Inside it was explained that the stain glass came from a catholic church nearby that Henry VIII had dismantled. Wonderful old wooden beams. I thought these were of a wood that spiders do not like. He agreed no spiders but did not know the wood used.

Along a babbling brook on Sheriff’s way and through the town of Windermere. Bowness seems a bit more charming, though QB found a good bakery. For me, another visit to Vinegar Joe and their excellent chips.

While eating chips got into a discussion with a couple from Manchester area. “how do you pronounce scones I asked”. Skonnes or some variant. Neither QB nor I can duplicate the spelling. Scones I said. Posh pronunciation they said. Interesting to be posh.

Dinner was the chef’s choice. Confit of mallard. Excellent.

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28 Sept. Very warm and sunny.

Several parts to this post. A day with an outstanding walk, best of the trip to date, good food, a boat ride, and a fine lesson delivered to us on dry stone walls.

The walk was straight up, 250-300 meters, to a fantastic 360 degree view fro Brantfell. Signs indicated that trees were felled to improve the view. Not sensible but led to a great expanse. Path then connected to the 81 mile long Dalesway between Ilkley and Windermere; naturally we did just a bit of it.

After the loop some fine salted and vinegar English chips, and then a boat cruise on Lake Windermere. It stopped at Ambleside pier, about a mile walk. No food consumed there as we wanted to catch the return steam ferry so as not to be late for dinner.

Dinner is included in out bed, breakfast, and dinner accommodation. Our room is right across from the Beatrix Potter room. She owned this country home at some point.

Dinner is very formal, British formal. We sit in a lounge and order dinner. The first of three Amuse Bouches are served. Escorted tom dinner, drinks carried by staff, another A.Bouche. Starter, sorbet, Main, desert and then back to the lounge for tea and sweets.

A lesson in dry stone wall making.

During the walk we saw two men repairing a stone wall. Naturally I asked them the process. One of them was happy to expound at great length, we were mightily interested. His compatriot was happy for a break and a chance for a cigarette.

This break in the walls of Marsdon estate, a working farm with 80 miles, not a typo, of stone walls, is serviced by three local skilled workman firms.

Walls come down from ground shifting, trees falling, and cars, yes cars. He was quite emphatic that this did little good for the cars. In the lake district walls are 3 feet six inches to 12 feet, made of slate. They last about 200 years. In other ares where granite is available walls are good for 600 plus years with some 2000 years old, Roman.

Two walls are built side by side. A frame, slightly narrower at the top. Topped with tilted vertical stones placed to keep the rain from accumulating in the crevices. Two stones are placed, then topped with a slate that covers two stones. Ever 18 inches a stone is interleaved as support between the two closely built walls. Stability of course. Ry filler isnpushed between all the stones. Dry inside. Dry stone wall.

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28 Sept. Warm, very warm. Hit 28 today. Brought cloths for 15-16 degrees C

Started off as an ordinary day, ordinary in a nice way. Then the extraordinary occurred, Bob was wrong. First the ordinary, in a very good way. Kippers, smoked haddock, perfectly poached eggs for breakfast.

Stopped for ice coffee before departing. Here they make it by putting the contents of a double espresso into a blender, adding ice, and running the blender. Foamy and surprisingly good.

Toured Conwy town and then headed off to Bowness. Got there with some mis- directions. Turns out, contrary to Bob’s instructions, the post code does not work, at least not here. The proprietor of the hotel explained, yes, there is a problem.. Takes you to a vacant corner. Possibly explains why the Brits use the full address in addition to the not so unique post code.

Nice walk to Bowness proper, fine marina and good town.

Dinner quite good but horrendously slow service. We left without getting coffee as it was approaching 2 hours. Assume that they will just charge the room.

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27 Sept. Another fine warm day. Getting warmer.

Decided to stay another day in this fine hotel. Walk the castle and then off to North western wales to do a coastal walk in Moelfre.

Conwy is, to our taste, far more interesting than Chester- a very good city. Here, we have mountains, views, a castle, no chain hotels, and a marina.

First a stop at the bank to turn in old British pounds, 20£ notes. No longer legal tender. HSBC bank explained that they usually will not exchange notes if one is not a customer. She made an exception for me, explaining several times that this is just not done.

Clearing up a detail from yesterday. A Welsh Cookie is a scone that has been
griddled and then buttered.

Edward I, grandson of Eleanor of Aquataine, king of england, owner of substantial estates in Aquataine, decided he need some Welsh property. That or he wanted access Welsh food.

He hired an army, paid them well, and after conquest started building the same type of castles as he had built in SW France. Used the same master Mason to build the one here in under four years. Well built as it is still standing.

Off to the coast to walk the shore and some inland fields, stiles, and mud; ended with tea and scones back in Moelfre.

Dinner included duck at the recommendation of Jane, our expert on all things Welsh; went well with local Conwy beer.

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> 26. Sept. Much too warm. According to locals nicest day since mid-August >
> Saving the castle for tomorrow we headed out on climb of Conwy Mountain. Bit challenging walk, often loner than advertised due in part printed directions. >
> Passing the UNESCO site (see graphic) the first turns we took were wrong.
> We passed an important ball of string: smallest house in Britain. The owner apparently toured the country to see if he could find a smaller one; did not.
> There was a small queue as the house only accommodates one person. Great view of the quay. >
> Next a wrong turn but got back to the correct point near the wrought iron railway crossing bridge pictured. Had to ask some locals for directions. At some point I mentioned we were doing country walks and had instructions such as “look for the mold on the rock”. He started to say that mold does not grow …and then realized my American attempt at humor; he smiled broadly when he got it. >
> Then up the side of the mountain. Nice view from the top. After descent with some help from other locals we got directed to an ice cream stand that makes their own vanilla flavor with local cream. Excellent. Two large cups were consumed and good they were as many more miles and hills to go. >
> Directions: where is Grovsfoord? Over the hill there in the next valley. Next person asked, where is Grovsfood? You are in it. Just these three houses. >
> Several mis-turns later arrive back in Conwy just in time for a late tea. Started at 11am and just got in under the 17:00 wire. 16th century building with a real tea shop. Very strong local building code about making changes. The owner said jail. >
> Jail I asked, not civil?
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> No, jail. Very serious about there listed houses.
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> Had Welsh Cakes, similar to pancakes, small like cookies, more flour than pancakes, raisins, served warm and buttered. Fresh scones and a lovely minted pea soup (just sounded too good to pass). Made me think of three of my favorite woman. >
> Mussels are a local speciality. Dinner. Do you have Conwy mussels. No, not until Oct. 1, sorry. Excellent kitchen. Appetizer pictured. Monkfish, salmon and many nice veggies. Of especial note , vanilla mashed potatoes. QB declared the especially good. >
> Pictures in email only. WordPress problems again.
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Sept. 25. Nice and too warm

Walking the wall of Chester and then off to Wales. Chester’s sites are well covered on many fine web sites. In summary, an excellent walking town, wall, pedestrian area, with several good restaurants. Chester sausages (me) and pancake with roasted vegetables (QB) as well as a plate, assorted, of fine salamis (Bobby) consumed just before a quick dash to the train station for Bob.

Concurrent with this blog are the reports from Spain by Libby, currently checking out Barcelona. This is a good thing as our back up plan might be Barcelona. George believes it is Rick Perry; Gail Collins in the NYT has declared Romney as the anointed one. Shudder.

Now in another foreign tongue land. Basque and Welsh are equally without recognizable cognates. With Catalan we stood a small shot at guessing words.

The link below describes the castle, well worth the visit by URL.
83 conwy castle. http://www.castlewales.com/conwy.html

Pictures: roman garden in Chester, across the bridge to Wales.