Boog's Blog

Visited the national trust and wandered back North to see the Brdruthan Steps, an interesting rock formation.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnewas_and_Bedruthan_Steps

Back South at Watergate bay we found Jamie Oliver's 15, stopped in for antipasto. Nice mushrooms on today.

On the cliffs many hourswith green roofs.

Met Katherine and Allan in the joy tub. She of Zimbabwe and he of Yorkshire. Dinner together followed.
Sailboat teaching enthusiasts.

Cider: orchard dry apple. 3.5 Boogs not nearly dry enough.

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Pleasant walk to Constantine Bay. Book said easy, different definition of easy. No beach walks today.

Leaving the lovely tourist town of Padstow we spoke with a window washer. Noticed that many shops were having their windows professionally washed. Apparently the shops have them done once a week due to the accumulation of salt from the bay. What water do you use I asked. Oh, water from the bay he said with a smile and a wink.

Warmish day but chilly for a swim. Nevertheless we saw a woman braving a bay.

Beer, draft, local: Betty Stogs. An ale. Less carbonated than a lager. Dryer than the Doombar. Quite tasty. 3.8 Boogs. Then a Skinner's Lager, just to compare. Light, slightly sour, moderate carbonation. 3.0 Boogs.

We are staying at an "Eco lodge". Kale for dinner, Rescued Ferret tea.

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Watched a show last night called Doc Martin. Filmed in Port Isaac it draws tourist buses to the town. One shopkeeper told us that it is taking America by storm.

Next three miles reputed to be the hardest on the path. Skipped via taxi and picked up the coast just past Port Quin. Still managed to get 11 miles in. Best walk so far. Some climbing, some fields, some easy and some hard walking on soft sand.

Rocks covered in small, black mussels. The beach at Polzeath is lined with rocks and maybe a few hundred thousand mussels clinging to the rocks.

St. Enodoc church. A little known Celtic saint/hermit. Church constantly recommended in guide books and by fellow travelers. 12th century. Previously was buried in sand. A bit of a detour, interesting wooden ceiling and one stain glass window.

Padstow is entered by ferry across the Camel river. Very much a wealthy tourist town, some good shops, have not seen many so far. Several attempts at high end restaurants.

Beer: Doombar out of a bottle. Rock, just across the Camel river, is the home for Doombar but our place has only bottles.

Best whitebait, maybe ever.

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A rest day. Wandering this town and nearby Gaven. Sampling a pudding cake with after dinner coffee.

Local lobster. Very similar to the Maine variety. Hard shell, smaller in size. Tasty. Served without butter, just some lemon.

Whitebait. Not new Zealand style.

Cider: Cornish Orchard Sharps, medium

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Nice cliff walk out of Tintagel to a pub where we picked up a taxi to port Isaac. Avoided what is according to the books and the locals the hardest and most treacherous part of the entire cost path.

The path crosses a slate quarry, commercial for many years. This explains the wonderful herringbone walls (instead of dry stone walls) made oflocal slate. Many houses are clad or have roofs from the quarry.

An item from a walk two days ago: rabbit holes, many on the path. Surprising, at least to me, how large they are. Origin of the white rabbit in the Alice tale?

The large cows, auburn with bison like hoods, are red ruby named.

Tonight's ale: Sharp's doombar, rock Cornwall. 4 on Boogs scacom

Sea trout for dinner.
http://www.seatrout-fishing.com

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Much easier walk with just under 1000 ft of elevation gain and better graded paths. The expected fine coastal views.

Friendly hotel in tintagel. Pleasant tourist town based on king Arthur. Castle ruins, pubs, shops etc.

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This was a walk, hike, path for mountain goats. Just over seven miles by gps. Seven hours by foot without a break for lunch, average of 1.1 miles per hour. 1843 feet of elevation gain, similar amount from the steep decents.

Walk included the highest point on the Cornish coast.

Without the rain and gusty wind of yesterday it was an easier walk. Gives an idea about yesterday.

Met a couple that kisses at each kissing gate and have been doing this for years.

Stone walls are In general this vertical slate construction.

Bodcastle a charming village set on a river emptying into the sea.
Stone houses that were all rebuilt in their pre-flood image. The 2004 flood wiped out most of the low lying homes.

Dinner a disappointment. Wellington hotel has decent food review and recommendations but quality was below par.

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Classic views and weather.

Steep cliffs, some dangerous downhill sections, little mud, good views of a rugged coast.

After one particularly nasty downhill section we abandoned the cliff road for metaled road.

Dinner at the local pub, only place for miles around. Friendly and flexible. Room not great but stunning view of the sea. So far each place, whether food or lodging, has gone out of their way to please. Not the UK we remember.

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After a morning with picturesque rain and fog, (for a description read the set piece in any novel set on the English coast ), a walk about town.

An education at the local lawn bowling club. The manager explained the rules, handed us one of the balls, surprisingly not round and not do light. Got to see end of season club championships.

At the pastry shop a lesson on Cornish versus Devon pasties. Crimped edges and good versus other edges and not good.

A local cafe and restaurant was formerly a seed house. The walls are thick and made in a manner called cob. Not familiar with this we asked. A construction of stone and a morter of mud, horse hair and small stone. No idea if this was frequently used or a one off.