Boog's Blog

Monday 23 October

Train ride to the big city. QB still suffering from or with her cold; hacking stage now.

View from our window at the now departed from Parador.

Spanish cultural concept of space is different than ours.  Get too close, rarely move out of the way, need to shout over them to order.  

Train ride highlight was the ride through the Guadarrama tunnel just outside of Segovia.  Train got dark, no phone connection and stayed that way a long while.   Looked up tunnels in this region and found the above named. 28+ km long, longest in Spain.  Two tubes.  

On the way to dinner passed a bean and other stuff store.  Lower center are the beans in last nights dinner.

Dinner at the Mercado of San Miguel.   Have eaten here before with G&M.  Not as crowded early on a Monday night.  We got seats with only mild difficulty.

An interesting Mozzarella dish as well as a seafood dish, both small but expensive, pictured.  Along with the usual.  

A big square, actually square.  Lots of life.  

Tuesday 24 October. continued warm and getting warmer.

Stopped down at the concierge desk to ask why some rooms are marked “SPG Preferred Guests”, what that means and what do they get.   Nada.  A plaque.  Thats it? Yes.

Went to Starbucks and asked for a coffee.  You want an Americano?  No, just a standard Starbucks coffee.  Sorry, we do not have that.  She showed me the drip machine which was set up to dispense hot water.  Similar story at another Starbucks.  “No demand” I was told.

Went to Correos to inquire about shipping a jamón to Bobby. The post office, Correos, is in the big department store which sells a fine selection of jamóns.  Can you ship to London I ask.   Several people attempt to answer the question.  One consults the screen, one calls a colleague, both consult and ask me to wait.   Upon return we are told, effectively, maybe.  

The intertubes make it clear that the answer is yes, EU rules, but the concern at the Correos as well as an estimated shipping charge put us off.  Bobby’s dogs will just have to eat his usual table scraps, fine scraps that they are. 

Bobby nicely had his Street repaved and renamed, Queen Boog Blvd.

Sunday 22 October

Bus ride to see, again, this cross roads city. Two caminos converge here. Bishops palace, Gaudí, cathedral, chocolate center as mentioned in blog on Mansilla de Mulas.

Arrived in time for a full Mass at the cathedral.  Might have been special as it was run by three men in green robes, one with a red hat.  After a while someone came by and took off the red hat while he was speaking.  No pictures allowed, of course during the Mass.

Went back later, paid the museo fee, to see it properly.  Another polychrome to the max retablo.

At first we thought the choral parts were a recording but… after some missed notes realized it was a live group.  The organ was lovely to listen to. As always great sound in a largish cathedral.

A painting in the museo I could not ignore.

Off to the bishops palace, Gaudí designed, with a wonderful story – not so much for Gaudí.  The final result is outstanding and was worth the side trip.

QB has a fine collection, on Flickr of this date, of the interior.

One interior picture.

The horror (architecturally) story follows. Worth reading.

In the palace there is a room of Jimmies.  Here is a particularly nice one.

A pretty good day for wildlife:

-a rat in the museo; two flocks of sheep, ducks.

Astorga chocolate.  Yes, we aquired some of the ubiquitous amounts available.  Many types.  Prices at a very small fraction of home but much higher taste quality to me.  Nice packaging too.

Ordered white beans with chorizo. The waiter explained these would be special beans, the largest, the absolute largest. They and the broth we excellent. Another dish for us to duplicate.

Friday October 20

Have become a fan of Ribera especially after having for a few days the Prieto Picudo, local grape that is private labeled to the small hostels we have stayed at before reaching León, 

Correos, post office to the Spainish, outstanding service.  Sent some of our dirty and unneeded items back by post.  Could not have been more helpful.  Unfortunately sold out of the Camino – Correos shirt for this year.

Roasted lamb is a or the speciality of this area. Had to try it. Natural place, at the Parador.

Saturday 21 October 

A tourist day and a day of significant disappointment. The disappointment was the cancelled organ concert at the big cathedral.

First stop, Gaudí building, just outside, now a bank. Classical architecture. Now interior tours. 

Saint George and the dragon on the front of the building.

The main visit was to the Leon cathedral.  One of the greatest.  One pic included but many more online as this is a well photographed site.

We arranged our schedule in Leon to hear an organ recital in the cathedral. 

 Great program too.  Pics show program, organ and one inside shot.

The not heard organ. A double pipe.

Market day, Saturday, with indivdual markets for vegetables, clothes, junk/flea, etc.  Fun to wander and pick up some fruit for an afternoon snack.

The second big attraction of Leon is the Cloister -convent of San Isadora.  Guided tour only, no pictures except the rooster.  

The frescos, original, are the highlite.   Online again to view.  Guide, in Spanish, went through each panel.  The calendar fresco was, to me, the best.  

The cloister is marked as the place, in 1196, the first “court” (Cortes) was held with three areas around Léon.  Unesco… of course.  Supposedly the origin of democracy at least for this region. 

Roosters abound.  One picture area allowed, with a giant rooster.  The signage said they are symbols of hope and ……

Tuesday 19 October. No rain, mild.

Better by foot.  So ends this Camino where KB, for the first time, and QB for the second time saw these sections by foot.

For KB definitely better by foot. Saw more and enjoyed it more. QB found this adventure better this time due to less injury.  Naturally painful but not injured.

Distance today’s: 25+ km

Distance for the adventure: about 300 miles, more than half way by more than a smidge.

Mansilla de las mulas was fully walled, now only partially.  A section. Early am picture.

Corn in the field.  A cool morning but this is not ice though it looks like it.

Most of the walk, except for some hills put into to avoid the road, are on the side of the road.  Not the most attractive walk.  We liked it better as we got closer to Leon and in the midst of people.

Rio Torio, Crossing as entering Leon.  Clearly cleaned up.

Parador, similar to the one we like in Santiago.  Celebrated by buying, and drinking a bit of a Rivers del Duero Crianza.

Dinner with other peregrinos.  Two from Italy, Milan, two from Canada, Two from Birmingham.  Just a final get together before we all go out separate ways.

Posting my be less than daily for the next sections, seeing Leon, Astorga, Madrid, Salamanca, Toledo, Segovia,London.  Assuming we can fit all of the above in.  So is the plan.

Wednesday 18 October. Day started with drizzle and then turned to rain for most of the day. 

Garmin and Android 20.34 and 22.11 km respectively.

It was good leaving Burgos de Ranera.  The hotel was a dump, far too small a room and bed with a barely functioning shower.  Not very friendly and poor food. We should have gone back to the lunch restaurant for dinner.   Who knew.  

Scenery on the road today, very minimal architecture again.

Nice spot just outside of town.

On the way into Religios, our first and only stop, we passed a series of bodegas.

Bar Elvis, aptly named for its quirkiness. A place to take off our wet clothing, have some coffee and a bit of cheese.  Atmosphere ruined a bit by the the person smoking next to the no smoking sign.

Alberqueria de camino turns out to be a small, four room accommodation with an extremely friendly and helpful manager.  Nice room (for a zero star) with a shower. Good kitchen.

Visit to the local, Provence of León, ethnographic museum.  Includes a bit about chocolate in this area.

Some festival dress.

Period dress of the nineteen thirties.

Tuesday 17 October.  Rain promised as an almost full day one. However, only a few sprinkles.

Garmin and Android agreed on distance: 21.5 km

Vino tinto: tried last evening the local Prieto Picudo wine as they were out of the Ribera and Rioja.  The hotel is closing in a week.  Two plus star mascarading as a four star.  The grape is not one we will order again.

Leaving Sahagún we see both it’s gate and it’s old (Roman orignally) bridge.

Met some Korean women walking the Way. We have seen quite a few. Two reasons have been given and confirmed – (Don take note for S&J).   A book, in Korean has been written about the Camino; it appears to have had a similar effect as the movie The Way.   Second, they and others have considered it good for their CV’s. 

The path is not exciting today.  Mostly along side  a minor (perfectly paved) road. No mud on the path as not enough rain to even dampen.

Inside a small ermitage.  Muy guapa – very pretty-  said the woman sitting and making sure nothing was stolen.

Lunch.  We were not expecting much in the small town of Mansilla de Mulas but we were surprised in a good way. Very good way. Had vegetarian choices, fresh leeks.

Hotel, a one star that has just earned its star. Shower similar to the one built by QB’s father, in their  Greenwich village house.

Men playing dominos in the bar.  Surprisingly, when I asked, they were planning domino, singular form.

Bobby, however, is eating Vietnamese Street food in London.  Soon…….

Monday 16 October not as warm as yesterday

Rest day.

An old Adobe church in Sahagún, a small town of just under 3K persons.  No longer prosperous like much of rural Spain.

Stopped in a local panadería and picked up regional specialities.  The big one, Rosca, crumbly not too sweet except for the coating and tastes a bit like merangue without sugar. The two small ones were described as “solo pasta”.  The one isolated one is special to only this city she said. 

Church of San Lorenzo.  Closed of course.  XIII, different look than most we have seen.

Once again the streets are clean, very clean with the locals sweeping with brooms and the cities cleaning.   The automobile roads, both the small ones and the larger ones are in better shape than home.  

Sunday 15 October. Promised to be the hottest day so far. Started out quite cool and got very hot in the afternoon, 86F.

Lots of water drinking as advised.

Garmin and Android agreed on 24.5 km

Morning delightful with an occasional sprinkle.  

At the fir.st coffee stop a PSA was on the TV. Wearing seat belts. Apparently there are cameras checking to see if the driver and passengers are wearing.   Fine for not is 3 points and 200 Euro.  

Great ecológico lunch in San Nicols.  House made humus, crudities, and an excellent salad.  Claimed they grew their own beans. Sure tasted perfect.

Passed these old bodegas used for storage of root veggies as well as wine.  Long long history as explained in the pic.  Only a few left.  

Nice old house in Sahagún along with our donkey companion.

Dinner with others.  Two Norwegian women, two Croatian women and an American they brought along.   Decided to do the dinner at the hotel for both convenience and easy conversation layout. 

Saturday 14 October Hot, very hot

QB with heat exhaustion; Camino with nothing; a shorter stage between towns, just over 18 km.

Nothing.  Either the beauty or horror, depending upon your point of view, of the Meseta in this section.

Think Sierra Madre with QB as Eli Wallace searching for the goal/gold, except here it is a known town.  Think of the mountains replaced by endless plains with searing heat.

Think of the heat beating down.   Here is QB before the worst. 

No wildlife but did see one small patch of green.

A roadside rest stop.  No services but a bit. of shade to eat a bit of food from this am.

A view from the rest stop.  Might be able to just see the absolutely still windmills, 25 or so, in the distance.

The town, about 150 meters long, has an albergue with a hostel to stay at.  Same management.  And yet…

The one star has the best WiFi we have had since the beginning.  Has an elevator. Friendly.  A decent ice cream dispenser, we had three along with two beers.

Friday 13 October same only warmer

A day of medieval architecture, long straight roads, territoriality of birds.

Garmin 27 km

The day starts with a view of a 3rd century Starbucks, prototype. PSL not available.

Nearby is the Church of San Martín, started in 1096.  Could not get in.  It is a deconsecrated church that is now an historical monument with lots of tourist travel.   Details under church name in Carrion Los Condes.

The town name does NOT refer to Carrion of the condors; most unfortunately as that is the feeling in the early am.

Soon one runs into a XIII century emitage quite nicely lit, bright sunlight,  by a romanesque window. Ermitage de la virgin del socorro.

We appear to be part of the seven horsemen of the apocalypse. The four original, Ronnie the milkman (Terry Prackett) and the two Boogs.  We are drought wherever we go.  

Another of the long straight roads. A small town in the background.

A story of geese and a donkey.  We stopped for a break at an outdoor garden bar/cafe.  Two geese were wandering about, as well as two ducks (you will hear no more about them) and a donkey behind the bar. 

The donkey ventured out to the garden.  The geese gave chase nipping at the donkey’s heels. The donkey kicked, as they normally do, but the day went to the geese. The donkey retreated to the back and the geese pranced about.

All happened too fast to capture and observe.  Chose the latter. 

The guide books say not to miss this one, pay the 1 euro for lighting the pictures retablo and be amazed.  In Villa azar, transitional Roman to Gothic, XI to XII.

Have not been able to research retablos.  How were they made? Studios making interchangable parts of polychrome and paintings? Custom made?  Of Mexican origin?  Happy to hear, via email or the comments section, information gleaned by readers. 

A view looking rear. 

As I mentioned, an architectural day.  Front view.

Our abode for the night, an old monastery with its converted hotel section. Plus a QB.