BSV Tra Vinh

Further along the Mekong today.

Included two ferry rides, one of 25 minutes and interesting to see the big river.

The other was a 45 minute ride on a private boat, a largish sandpan. Image 17 shows the boat just prior to boarding.

The longer ride included paths down and in channels of the river. Took out the binoculars in annticipation but alas no interesting birds.

The day started with a visit to a snake farm. Run by the Navy, I think as part of research about the local snakes and how to treat those effected. Pythons, Cobras, King Cobras, bears, birds, mongoose, etc. Pictures of the 'farm' in the main camera.

Lunch included Asian pear fruit, local fruit that is a combination mango and loquat, very milky in consistantcy as well as pomolo.

Hot today, very hot. 102 according to my watch. Good roads, some headwinds but it was the heat that caused the challenge and a lot of drinking.

Rural vietam, finally. Really not much different except the number of people way down, roads less congested and more rice paddies as well as banana plants.

Nice hotel, better than yesterday. Excellent A/C, yeah.

Fish soup dinner but the heat of the day sapped much of the appetite. The fresh clams and nems were excellent.

Tomorrow to Can Tho a larger city of about 2M

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BSV. My Tho

First the food then the excitement and lastly the challenge.

Breakfast (img 15 and 16) fruit of outstanding quality. Vietnam exports the less good stuff and it shows. The papaya is perfect, maybe better than perfect. Goes down like food of the Gods. The Viet stuff is a wonderful mixuture of sweet, spicy, sour and hot- yin yang tastes.

This trip was advertised as a culinary one and so far it has surpsassed even my hopes. On the road we stopped at local eateries where the tour operator had planned well ahead. Each eaterie is a family endevor. A place on the road where the family lives and works and cooks and catches fresh fish and prepares it to perfection. Quite a bit of the final cooking is done at the table. Lotws of fresh cooked veggies, fish caught and hour a go.

Each meal has had about 2-3 times the amount of food we can eat. The guides explain that the food is very good, fresh and very cheap. Lunch for five might run $5 even with the excess and the drinks.

The eating is constraIined by the heat and humidity. It is basically too hot to eat much. Taste each, or most of the dishes and then just have to stop.

The bike ride from Saigon (the inner city name) is challenging. The roads are very crowded, the motor bikes, bikes and lorries are moving in all directions. No real respect for any set of rules of the road. Accidents are not uncommon and are dealt with locally. Locals take care of the medical and then negotiate with the parties over who pays what to whom. The police come but they play a lessor role.

Just as in the commerce the social conventions are very much Darwinian with a very Confucian overlay. Respect is important and real. Negotiatioins are had but fair and always seem to end well, even when the look aggressive. The evening cyclo ride took five minutes to negotiate, seemed heated and looked uncomfortable but apparently was not. The negiation amount was small to us. The two drivers would take me to an internet cafe, wait and then take Trang and I back to the hotel, about a twenty minute ride. Total time over an hour. Price ended up at $2.50 for the two drivers. The were, in effect, negotiating over 20%. Overtripped at less than a $1 for the two of them. Trang said wrong to give any more!

So, why was I at a Internet place? My GPRS signal, data that is, has ceased to work. Someplace out of Saigon we have become too rural. So I am putting this together as a notepad item and will send it when connectivity resumes. Toady or two weeks, who knows.

The excitement is the biking in the trafic and heat. Oftentimes a bit too much. Maybe we will hit the ideallic rural Vietnam I picture but clearly no sign of it as yet. The road is almost. Continuous home-buisiness. One gets space on the road, which is in terrible condition making the ride very hard and rough, then a layer of brown dirt, with some litter (less than China) and the about 15 feet of concret store front for chairs, putting out of goods, whatever. Then the store and upstairs living. Sometimes three stories very narrow.

My Tho is just a another city with about 400K people who are supposed to be much more relaxed than Saigon. Hard to see it except maybe in the dinner service this evening. Preparations and service of real beauty and charm. Whole crispy fist, served vertical and fileted using chopstics in one hand. And that was just the first dish.

Off to bed to face the heat, humidity and, hopefully a bit more rural biking. After 50 plus miles of the same commerceI am ready to see
Some variation.

BTW. Did not mention the livestock on the road. Cows (or something similar) chickens, pigs, geese, oxen? And of course dogs. Too hot for any of them to chase the bikers. Many rice paddies as to be expected. The cab get three rice crops here versus the north which gets only two.

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BSV HCMC end

Last day in HCMC, a tourist one as well as an exciting bike day. First the tourism.

Standard fare of the museums, historical monuments and war memorials. As Vietnam has been the object of being occupied for 1500 years much of their tourism is centered about their wars and victories. The war with America being only the last in a very very long series.

Was interesting to hear Japenese and French spoken (by tour guides) with a Vietnamese accent.

One advantage of touring museums wth a tour guide who has a degree in Tourism – Korea has a similar degree – is that both history and culture are accessible via my usual probing.

The pagoda we visited, picture of one corner included, was incense and smoke, from Joss sticks, filled. Very East Asian Buddest. Matayana not Vipasana..

Lunch was a Pho 24 a new chain of high end Pho shops. The guide, Tong, said it was better than the Pho his mother made. I thought it was excellent and had perfect Cha Gio; ordered for the table. Picture included.

Last photo is one after the bike was assembled and we got on our way riding in Saigon. If walking is as thrill filled as I mentioned yesterday, and it certainly is, then biking is an adrenaline rush if there ever is one. Loved it as was sorry to stop riding.

Early evening massage and then off to dinner.

Probably the best Viet dinner I have ever had. Haute cuisine At La Taverne. Two soups, 4 seafood dishes and fruit. Incredible soft shell crabs and a rice fabric that I have not seen before.

A walk back via the market capped the evening.

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BSV HCMC Evening

Commerce lessons continued with my walks, dinner and then evening walk.

Sidewalks are not for motorbike parking. However, people set up shops on the sidewalks and charge to watch your motor bike and presumably to park. When I asked our guide about this he explained that the police occasionally come by and pick up all the bikes. He then did a Viet shrug/laugh.

Saw on one street, a main one, a person with his family, included two kids playing and soliciting for moeny' with a very small shop, very. Just a bike pump and four old tires. Presumably for fixing flats of motorbikes as they whiz by. Four tires, one old pump and no overhead.

Met the two other bikers, father and son. Viet vet and his 30 year old son. He lives in Venura and his son in San Fran. So much for another culture.

The city at night, Saturday night, was alight with lights and even more people – maybe most of the 8 million who live in the area. Traffic watching is exciting and a good passtime. 12000 traffic deaths a year. No idea how many accidents.

Dinner, photo of kitchen, included.

BTW – the man in the blue shirt (of the previous post) is a abstract of a regional steamed dish; name not sayable.

HiHi

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BSV HCMC First Day

A perfect cool morning, started about 7 am at the 5th floor restaurant. Wore a long sleeve shirt and was just mildly warm. Had a great seat overlooking the Saigon River.

The Majestic is a Colonial Hotel built in 1925. One of the pictures should show a view from my seat and one from the river – walked over but more about that later.

The had a western and eastern buffet. One photo should show the Congee bowl with Kim Che and other wonderful toppings. Then found the Pho – there should also be a picture – and I got lucky by adding just the exact amount of hotness. Figured I better stop at this point as there will be many more days of good meals.

Did scarf down some fried taro, sauteed veggies and flat noodles – and a bit more Kim Che.

The river is a busy one, seems only sloghtly more organized in traffic than the streets. I have never seen anything like crossing a street in HCMC.

Before taking off for a walk to the market I got the waiter to try and teach me a few polite forms. With a six tone language success was not to be mine; will continue over the next few weeks. Only took me 20 years to get Cha Gio close enough that a waiter would bring it the first time.

Next to go wandering. The weekly market looked like a good destination – long enough to walk a bit but not out of reach. Takes about 3 times as long after one gets going. I stood at the traffic for over a minute at the first intersection. Cars, busses, motor bikes, bikes, other vehicles. No traffic lights, two way traffic in both lanes. Use of sidewalks. Have never seen the likes of this. Watched how the locals did it. Basically they just go and hope. Somehow the traffic slows or goes around, does not ever stop. After crossing about 20 streets I got the hang of it but frankly I still do not understand why it works, or even how it works.

Just walk, trust, do not stop, ignore the risk and trust.

Got to the market. Giant market, fruit meat, fish, innards, live food, cloth, Gucci Prada (fakes), thousands, literally, of small stalls. Many were eating and many were walking around serving. Cacophony of smells from all the food and stalls selling food. Was hard not to fill up on more Pho and other grilled, steamed dishes.

Took a walk up Le Loi, higher end area of town. Cool breeze was very nice. Found a high end shopping buliding very much like HK with US level pricing or so it seemed. This area is a lot less interesting; the local neighborhoods and shops, while small and very poor, are the real flavor of the city.

Commerce everywhere. Every few feet is a vendor selling something from food (stalls that can feed one or two outside on the street), one type of fruit, lottery tickets, cloth. Reminds me of rural China in 1989.

Got a can of Lipton Iced Tea, 5000 Dong, about 30 cents.

Eventually got back to the hotel, assembled the bike in the room and decided I needed a swim. Got a swim and more as the spa had massages. 90 minutes for $20 less a 20% discount, no ideal why. Shiatsu massage, with Hot Rock rubs, walking on back, some Thai influences and quite a bit of pounding. Very fine. Left a tip that was too large (culturally) but did not care.

Will take a walk, then a rest and then meet up with the fellow bikers at 19:00 for a Welcome Dinner. Should have a good appitite by then.

HiHi P.S. Libby' please send a note to all reminding them to go to the Blog. What might work best is for me to write up the day and send it to the Blog with a Cc to you.

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BSV HCMC

Short night of sleep. Guess I am either excited to start seeing the city, jet lagged or not too tired from having slept quite a bit on the plane. Probably a bit of all of the above.

This keyboard is sure nice to have. Doubt I could send a note of any length with just the blackberry keyboard.

Breakfast starts in a few minutes, Will check it out but am not sure that the hotel voucher breakfast, in their restaurant will be interesting. May wander the river during morning commute. Saturday here so I suspect that they work a half day.

Well, off to the food and of course the heat and humidity.

BTW – hotel has a spa, swimming pool, massages, and of course pedicures; it is Vietnam afterall.

This is a Blog post without a photo.

HiHi

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BSV. HCMC arrival

Arrived without incident. Long flight of course. The picture, likely to be terrible, is in the arrivals hall. Tried to get a sense of the number of people and their density.

Got picked up and taken to the Majestic Hotel. Opened bike case and it appears to be in good shape but will not know until tomorrow when I try and assemble.

More after I have seen more. HiHi

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BSV Boog Sees Vietnam

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From home

Start of blog.

This blog to be used for Vietnam trip.   This is just a test shot taken from the front of our house – to see if moblogging will actually work.   Clearly it does.

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