Valencia 4

Where yesterday’s post heading is mentioned as wrong – we are in Valencia. QB did not proofread for obvious reasons and I did not have brain engaged on post,

We will remain in Valencia until Nov 22. Not sure where we are going after that but this will give enough time for QB to recover a bit and get some strength back. Spain medical is saying “3 or 5 or 7 more days in the hospital”. Seems a bit conservative; hoping so.

Wandering over the hospital today saw many outdoor markets. Yesterday it was books today clothing.

Clothing today – just needed some color in the post

Walking a good part of the way to the hospital could see how the outer city is structured. Reminds one of Lefrak city – if one were a New Yorker of a certain age. Large soulless buildings, tall, grouped together. Much of China architectured that way as well.

QB’s room changed. She was on the Covid and it turns out Ebola floor. Double doors, negative pressure rooms, adjoining room as (think two hotel rooms with adjoining locked doors) used to gown and ungown from Ebola. Now in a more normal room. Of course, she was moved to the room and upon arrival they removed the old bed, and started cleaning after, yes after, she was wheeled in. I was asked to step out while they did wipe down of probably no value.

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Salamanca 4

Where all is now undecided, QB admitted to hospital for observation – pneumonia found in lungs at emergency room of hospital where we went early am Sunday local time. Now in room being treated.

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Valencia 3

Where oranges are verified, horchatas and fartons consumed, agua Valencia investigated, qb needed to call our doctor, cathedral visited, choral mass at Iglesia Vergen.

At breakfast I asked if the oranges in the orange juice were from Valencia; yes of course. Small town nearby. Tasted very different here far far less sweet but very good

Cathedral first. Holy chalice relic, allegedly the Holy Grail; thought it looked pretty new.

Holy chalice?

Choral at church.

Walked the El Carmen district and then came back for horcheta and farton.

Expensive, very sweet, worth trying once
Horchata y fartons

https://www.food.com/recipe/agua-de-valencia-483578

Afternoon coffee

QB having trouble breathing, tired, hurting. Dinner with Cava in the room

Cava hotel gift, rest Carrefour

Orangery near Generalitat, a historic government edifice
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Valencia 2

Where a day of wandering led to the Central Market, the silk exchange, the silk museum, paella at Riua (shout out to Jerome), and some fine wandering leading to music (practice?) at the cathedral and views of other churches, there are many

Where we also learned how to use saffron and how much at a spice vendor at the Market. Different qualities, some just chemicals. Good vendor.

Iconic shot of silk merchant exchange
Simple shot of the Central Market, huge

Wonderful city, easy to see why there is a ex-pat community here.

At the silk museum, some history
Loom at the silk museum
Seems to be a bobbin winding machine
Chufa, used to make (h)orxata

We tried a small orxata. Chufa, sugar (much) water. Sweet, very popular here, lots of shops sell it.

At Ruia restauant
The obvious

Discussed with the server why the paella was not crispy (socarrat). “Well you did not ask for it”. Explanation that followed explained that many think it is over cooked if served that way so they don’t unless asked.

Wandering led to area near the cathedral

Church near cathedral Virgen de los desamparados

Two audio files included below. No idea if they will work, just trying. From the Cathedral practice

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Santiago to Valencia

Where we braved Ryan air; QB got new shoes, rained upon, had dogfish, and got to enjoy a large city.

Dogfish, shark if you look it up, Cazón en adobe.

Train a bit too long and several changes, so flew instead. Could have been worse. Paid for every upgrade, every bill that they put in front of me except a car. No idea what I purchased. I really hate Ryan air. Checkin and flight went smoothly.

Main square with Boog, near hotel

Nice hotel, only open two months, Only YOU hotel, a chain. Central location. We had the front desk mark all the places Jerome recommended and made reservations for the Paella place tomorrow.

Typical Euro City avenue

Unfortunately the air quality is marked unhealthy here. Must be pollution, something we have not encountered in Spain up until here.

Wandered around a bit and across the street from the shoe store was the Mercat de Colon, an eating place. Bye bye Extremedura prices. But great to be out in a city where people are out and about compared to the sad villages of the South.

Mercat
Other view of Mercat

Started to rain. Three well dressed woman mentioned to the server that it was raining; had them move the table a foot or so away from the dripping – Frank Lloyd Wright redux.

Light dinner

Peppers de Padron, Patatas Bravas, Valencia tomatoes, and dogfish. Basically a fish and chips dinner with some side.

Finished evening off with a good cup of tea. We are carrying teabags and this hotel has a 220V (read fast heating) kettle and some good mugs for the room.

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Santiago de Compostela 3

Cool morning and a good time for a walk in the park. Last of the attractions in this town. Santiago is the cathedral and related items, as well as food – percepes – and other stuff more to our liking.

City View from Park

Ritual filming of the shoes in front of the cathedral

Served faithfully and well

Dinner at the Parador restaurant. First some history

Dinner is below the barrel vaulted ceiling

At the University of Santiago. Unfortunately only an exposition of the library but a great cloister. Went to get a cap but all they had was USC and it took a bit before I realized it was not southern Cal.

USC
Suckling roast lamb
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Santiago de Compostela 2

At noon we went to a Pilgrim mass. Outstanding in many ways. Multiple languages, great pageantry, fabulous singing and music. Very well attended. Pilgrims identifiable by their footgear/injuries.

Baroque insanity
Multi Jimmys
Another one (Matamoros)

Link following contains two videos of the singing and organ from the Pilgrim service. The voice of the priest singer is a great baritone.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sBfVV4wzJ5c1eahr7

Putti infested organ
Help on the way. Note ‘copter in the background (not).

Just could not resist. In Salamanca, we walked through some of the Don’s turf:

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Santiago de Compostela

No scaffolding and much cleaner

Where travel booking, shoe shopping, and a very large store is encountered.

After a fine breakfast, smoked salmon on the buffet!, started the process of getting a plane to Valencia (train too many changes), a train to Barcelona, and a plane to London. More that a two hour ordeal, shortened by help from the UK side.

Plane to Valencia: three times cards rejected as suspected fraud. Each time enter the same large amount of passport, name, dates, on and on info. Will call it RC, Recurring Crap that they already had from either my account or previous form-filling. Fourth time got tickets.

Train to Barc: Used Rome2Rio app. Went easily and smoothly.

British Air to London. Grrrrrrrr. Card rejections, RC, RC, then need to go through setting up a Locator form where a Covid test must be booked before we can get boarding passes (Bobby was the champ here and said the process is now easier). Then to get ready to check in, RC RC RC. Info for Covid lateral flow tests to be mailed to Bobby. 48 hours or so before leaving we can put in the codes from the booked swab tests and maybe ….

May never travel out of the USA until Covid Kabuki theatre ends.

Hotel window view of Cathedral

Shoe shopping. QB needs new shoes and new feet and a knee. Neither were obtainable today. Walked over to El Cortes Ingles. Three stories, each the side of a large Walmart. Far too large to walk about. QB tried to get New Balance shoes. Size 41, a normal size. Not here. Largest size available for women is 41 ( and pink). Just buy “chico” shoes, they come in larger sizes. I think not. Check another store, same story. London it will have to be.

Protest for pensionares. I think same group we saw in Salamanca. The link below works if one copies and pastes in a browser. Links do not seem live, or I do not know how to make them live,

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dmWGEhQS2Trpc3Lu6

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Zamora to Santiago de Compostela

Where it is no longer BSVDLP as we are done sacking and are now touristing; where a train ride was easy after a late hotel departure.

Train started out at 150 mph. Slowed down for each of six stops, so overall not that fast.

Zamora train station – just like PA

Flea market in front of hotel. 35-40 tables. Busy.

A few typewriters too

Something that reminds about bureaucracy here.

QB arrival at the Cathedral

Made it with a little help from the train

Dinner, back to a menu we like better than Castille y Leon

Dorade

The chef is quite a griller:

Enormous steak portions, these not so much
Different stork?

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Zamora 4 of 4

Where a stork in a nest is spotted, a museum of very old stuff visited, a tea room closed, and planning revealed.

Rare sighting of a stork in a nest.

Stork. Nest.

Went back to the Museo of Zamora so QB and I could enjoy it together. Small, compact with lots of old cracked pottery and some good historical signage. Very bossy person followed us around to make certain we went in the correct direction and didn’t steal anything from the enclosed cases.

Headed over to get some tea again, only place we have found that has black tea. “Sorry, we are closing”. Closing for lunch so others can have lunch elsewhere.

Still no sign of a helicopter so train it must be Train to Santiago tomorrow for several days visit, then (as Orense thermal pools closed) off to Valencia for a number of day. A final stop in Barcelona and environs before heading to London earlier than anticipated. Hope there will be pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving.

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