Mumbai, February 11

Another day of touring planned.

Breakfast at the Taj. They seem to know me by now because of my apparently strange request for no salt. They have accommodated brilliantly.

Jaiiur Bardi spiral very sweet

Plan: Dabbawala tour & Dharavi tour ( The Dharavi slum tour)

Actually:

Sassoon dock
St. John Church
World Trade Center and Marine drive
After that, we went delivery Lunchbox
Victoria terminal Station
Dharavi
Bkc

Tea at Taj

Sassoon developed the fish trade here
Run by the Kolis
Large numbers of boats all go out at once and bring back lots
Unloaded by hand

These are sold locally wholesale and some retail gigantic business employees thousands in an area that looks like it’s falling apart, but clearly isn’t

St. John’s Church, not picture. Built after the Afghan war of 1820s something.

Notice each bag is numbered

The dabbawala lunchbox delivery system in Mumbai is an iconic service that has been operating for over a century. According to estimates:

• Around 200,000 lunchboxes (or “dabbas”) are delivered daily.

Been going on for about 150 years

Loaded onto bicycles

• The system serves about 200,000 people, as each lunchbox is typically for one individual.

Each lunchbox is hand cooked by a family and destined for husband wife student whomever, but it is personal cooking not commercial cooking

• Approximately 5,000 dabbawalas (delivery workers) handle this massive logistics operation.

One of many

• The system has an impressive efficiency rate, often cited as six sigma (99.9999% accuracy) with very few mistakes.

This traditional system operates with remarkable precision, despite relying on manual labor and bicycles, and has even attracted the attention of global business schools like Harvard for its efficiency.

Government building across from Victoria train station
Victoria train station, rather large now

Next to self-explanatory

Stopped at the local train station where there were multiple comuter trains of course. round-trip out to the suburbs twenty rupees . twenty four hours tickets but between two fix points; only roughly twenty five cents.

Synagogue, Sephardic. At one time there was a large Jewish population, but partition and the creation of Israel both occurred in 1948 a large part of the Jewish population moved to Israel 

One person tending the synagogue and part of the minion said ₹300 to come in ₹500 to take a picture
Typical structure
Clearly in poor repair. The regular congregation is down to 17 and maybe 5000 Jews left in the area or maybe the country.

First off it’s not a slum

Thriving pottery business
Large wholesale and retail business

Dharavi is one of the largest informal settlements in the world, located in the heart of Mumbai, India. It covers around 2.1 square kilometers and is home to an estimated 700,000 to over 1 million people. Despite its reputation as a slum, Dharavi is a major economic hub, with thousands of small-scale industries, including leather tanning, pottery, recycling, and garment manufacturing. The annual economic output of Dharavi is estimated to be over $1 billion.

Entrance to the factory area behind the front street
One of the better houses

Next to the Tamil area across the street

Clearly thriving businesses
Very busy very dirty alleyway
Large variety in the stores 

The pottery section was very unpleasant due to wood burning, kills and unbearable, air quality. Community manufacturing. The Tamil area was just busy commerce.

Next to Papadum manufacture

Each one handmade

This is a large manufacturing operation entirely staffed by women part of a large company and employees only women to sit around and make these classic home manufacturing. People would not allow me to take pictures of them and ask several turned me down as did others in other areas. In this area, they claim the company did not permit photographs.

Leather manufacturing

Had a long conversation with a fine English speaking person whose family had been doing this since 1977. We discussed the possibility of the government closing down this area, even though they’re trying to naturally tear it down for a bigger or better newer.

Manufactured with old equipment assembled by people, upstairs, retail, etc.
Just a normal day of intolerable, honking noise
Hand sorted recycle

 this is from the recycling area which employees thousands

More raw materials

Again, pictures were not possible

Splurged mightily on a Tea buffet at the Taj tea was basically extra unless you wanted a bag of tea.

Assam, single estate, very expensive even by US standards coloring is a effect of the light 

Very large buffet with hot food, cold food, cakes, pastries on and on and on

Neil Lebanese dinner
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6 Responses to Mumbai, February 11

  1. eltrudell's avatar eltrudell says:

    Much to absorb here! Re fishing industry, did you have any sense as to whether the supply of fish is stable, or whether there is danger of overfishing?

    The lunch delivery system and the efficiency rating is astounding! Bringing a bag lunch from home seems as though it might be easier, but perhaps the difference is that things spoil in the heat and each person gets a freshly made meal…

    You saw many alleys and many forms of production from pottery to papadum. And, many buildings in varying statues of repair. Having a magnificent tea at the hotel was a good recovery strategy. Am reminded of having a similar full tea service in Victoria, CA. Did you also have dinner later? I hope you slept well after all that!

    Elizabeth

    • boogkb's avatar boogkb says:

      When I mentioned over fishing, there was no indication of a problem, stable, business, stable, auctions, etc. Ate a little bit with Neil as pictured at the end end of the post and slept quite well. Full day😀

  2. bmorgen1's avatar bmorgen1 says:

    The Jaiiur Bardi spiral looks like the kinda thing that Muru eats….

  3. jldboston's avatar gardencheerfullye265debf39 says:

    Jeff – the colors!!!!!!!!!!!

  4. dianneellsworth's avatar dianneellsworth says:

    Jeff—just dropping you a note by email to thank you for this fantastic travelogue! Best ever in my estimation. I don’t remember the Vietnam one, which I’m sure was good but here there are just so many photos and description and commentary. Much more in depth about India (at least in this city) than I would’ve imagined. I was never much drawn to going to India, except maybe in the north, but it’s certainly has intrigued me. A really fascinating in-depth view. Anyway, I also love the classic sort of British/Indian tea, then followed by Lebanese dinner!!! Also hard to imagine what it was exactly they gave you for breakfast in the morning! Anyway, no political commentary here. Just wanted to say thanks! Dee

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