27 October another perfect day, two degrees warmer than yesterday

QB hobbled on. Hobbled being the key word for the last 8 kms or so. Got a text from her that she was lost and in pain. Lost on some ridge. Took a wrong turn somewhere, following someone else when she suspected it was wrong. Not like her as her navigation instincts are excellent.

After reaching Villafranca I went to the Farmacia to see if I could get some drugs. Succeeded in buying 40 tablets of 600mg ibuprofen. 1.98 euros please. Incredibly inexpensive here. The pharmacist, they are generally quite expert in France and Spain, suggested a foot gadget. Understood the medial tear and felt that this pair of silicon pads, when placed over the toes and on the ball of the foot will change the alignment with the body and pack and help the knee. She sees people all day with knee problems. No problem trying it out. Some doubt exists.

After QB put them on, too soon to know if they help as the combination of knee pain and tiredness after a 15 mile walk over hill and dale precluded snap medical improvement judgement. 24 euros please. Not all items are inexpensive.

KB took the Compostella route most of the way. Peaceful and scenic until a roman road of large rocks, had to walk a bit, got me back to the road.

The route out of Ponferrada was noted in our books as very confusing. Road names have changed and “even the locals get lost”. The bike book left time for getting lost so shortened the section. Nonsense. It was easy,even without using the GPS.

Many vineyards along the way, shining red and yellow in the sun. Large winepress not captured to pixels. More stork nests, have been seeing them for weeks, on or near bell towers.

The industrial revolution seems to have bypassed Villafranca. Still retains the old charm of an old village. Many of the streets, maybe most, are difficult cobbles. Not a biking town in the centro urbano.

According the the tourist office, not as yet confirmed, a miracle from St James: an automatic laundry (autoservico) – coin operated. Naturally at the top of a big hill. Some miracles are just not given away effortlessly.

Naturally another town contested for centuries, even was the capital of Bierzo, which became independent of Leon for two years. Gold and minerals in the hills. The Romans and later others wanted the stuff. After the French in the 19th century lost the city to the English the latter raided the town badly. The English general in charge, to stop the raiding, executed several of his men. Put a stop to the raiding.

We will stay here two days to explore and get ready for the climb over the mountain to the mountain top village O Cebrairo. Supposed to be a 30km climb. Again, much more worried about the descent. Will have to check with the locals about the road conditions and the weather before attempting the downhill.

Old tower when entering Villafranca. Abandoned tour as best as I could tell.

QB on route.