2 October overcast and windy (especially at 650 meters or higher) clearing to sunny and way too hot for walking

Unclean socks, two taped toes.

QB walked 13.5miles (felt like 20) of what turned out to be as interesting as walking across South Dakota, or maybe Nebraska, but with better colors. The last 12 km of her walk was shrub, scrub, harvested fields and a few close-to-harvest vineyards and no cover. First half of the walk included some reasonably nice small towns to break the scrubbiness. What the guidebook described as a “pleasant southeast wind” felt more like wind before a thunderstorm. Some toes on left foot going numb–like bicycle finger but not on hand.

KB bike ride similar except fewer small towns and lots of wind at the higher points; considered walking down some descents due to cross winds but managed to get down without incident.

Had a nice break in Los Arcos (named for the archers who saved the place during a war when Navarre, Basques and France were all fighting – all led by a king named Sancho). Navarre won, Basques were massacred. Permanent bad feelings. The break included my first octopus of the trip. QB limped in after many hours ready for rehydrating beer, no sea creatures.

Shout out to Bob M and Don for getting it right, Bob in about 10 seconds. Served in olive oil with lots of paprika. A bit expensive, about 2.5 times the other dishes available.

The large church here was open when KB arrived. Excellent example of Roman, Renaissance, and Baroque all in one building with the latter very much dominating. No pictures taken as expected QB to snap some upon arrival. Would have except that the church was locked by 3 pm, despite notice saying it was open until 8pm. Had a good cloister but not in the same league of filigree work as Pamplona.

Tomorrow, QB bussing out of Navarra to Logrono, capital of La Rioja region.

In Irache, one of the smaller villages there is the famous fountain of wine and water. One of the bodega’s offers both wind and water from a spout to all passers by. QB too a good shot of this well known watering hole before the long dry South Dakota section.