28 September

QB did a long walk and somewhat difficult hilly walk today. First into Pamplona, finishing with a walk over the Magdelana bridge and then up to the bastido. After that hours of touristing around the city and finally and exhausted rest required – dinner had to be skipped but …. fear not gentle readers food was obtained earlier.

Pamplona was founded in 74 BC by Pompey. He found it the perfect place to defend with the large plain of Magdelena below and then the mountains. Became his base camp. Long history of others wanting the wonderful views from the high points.

Navarre area: Buffer area between the Franks and Islam – Charlemagne came by and sacked it to keep it from getting too strong. The Basques defied both the Franks and Moors – succession of rulers too long and complicated to research let alone write about.

See also NYT article with the words “Basque Country Wines”

KB’s bike ride was the easiest day of the trip. 22 km downhill with a gentle grade. Had to put on socks for the early am ride, and somewhat confusing bike entrance but arrived around 9:30 am. Lots of time for looking around, figuring out the city layout, and seeing the cathedral.

The cathedral has an excellent cloister with very fine filigree work surrounding the open area. Doors and high craftsman level carvings are highlites. The church, under much scaffolding, has been rebuilt many many many times due to the history of conflicts not summarized above.

Walked out over the path to meet QB and enter the now explored city together. First off to eat – eat Pintxos (the high end Tapas) at a Bar. Had found this bar earlier and the wait was worth it. We entered hungry and just ordered one of almost everything, two of somethings. Ten plates of food as well as a potato and egg and cheese sandwich (QB sent a pic calling it a chip buttie ). That, two beers, tea and coffee. Might have picked a special place (lots of commendations on the wall but these are possibly easy to obtain) as food was excellent. Walked around and found at least a million similar places each with different choices. When we finally headed to the hotel around six we looked into the bars and saw the even Pintxos and Tapas – more and more.

QB’s leg hurt too much to go out to eat and turned down room service. I went to restaurant and had a full vegetarian dinner with veggie soup and wok prepared veggies. Nice for a change.

We will stay two nights in Pamplona.