26 September Perfect day for walking and riding, both being done.

A month of hills through France, we hoped, would put us in shape for the climb over the Pyrenees. It did.

QB stuffed herself with Aleve, then walked up and up. Arrived before her so I went into the town and then walked back to meet her at the top of the pass.

Upon arriving at the top of the pass, I (QB) staggered into the bird migration station. Freezing, both building and me, so bought the t-shirt and pulled it on to add a fourth layer. Then went for cheese and stale bread hoarded in my pack.

Spent five minutes emailing a rebuttal to Bob’s latest abuse; looked up and there was the KB looming. More photo ops.

Roland had his special named sword: Durandarte

KB now has a special named gear: Pyrenees Fixe.

I put the bike into this now appropriately named gear and, without stopping, climbed the 700 meters to Ibañeta. Not the highest point of this trip (Col de Aubrac was at 1306 m ) but certainly the longest single climb. One gear, no stops. Maybe in the strongest biking shape in my biking history.

When I met QB at the top she was flopped on the chapel porch eating a pre-lunch. Some pics taken and then we strolled into town. While I was waiting for her, apart from a coffee, I went to the tourist office. Collected good info on eating in Spain – had been confusing watching others eat at various times while sitting in bars.

Times indicated are for Northern Spain, this region (Navarra). All the way to the coast.

Desayuno 06:00 – 10:00 breakfast

Almuerzo 10:00 – 12:00 usually eaten in the bar

Tapeo or Pintxos (high end gourmet tapas) 12:30 – 14:00 usually eaten in the bar

Comida 14:00 – 16:00 lunch but in a restaurant

Merienda 17:00 -19:00 generally eaten at home

Cena ( also with Pintxos) 20:30 -23:00 in a restaurant

After meeting QB we decided to eat a bit – appropriate after the walk. Went to a restaurant and were politely told that we could eat either in the sit down restaurant, off the prix fixe menu, or in the bar where many were congregated and smoking. In the bar we could have al la carte plates. As we were hungry opted for the full “comida”.

Comida took a bit of menu research and explanations of dishes. Ended up with a good lunch of pork stew, a red bean and sausage soup and a flan as well as coffee. No veggies on the menu or offered. I asked a few times about a desert that the table next to us was having. She called it yogurt but I knew it was not. I asked again for the name, which is cuajada. By way of explanation, she gave us a free one. Cuajada is from sheep’s milk, looks like yogurt but tastes like it has not been cultured. Served in attractive earthenware jar with honey to mix in. Excellent. We will order it repeatedly for research purposes.

Shout out to Bob: To make this cheese, 1) have Hugo bring in a sheep, 2) feed sheep well, 3) milk the sheep, 4) add other stuff until complete, 5)serve to friends and family.

The hotel we are at is outstanding. Real three star hotel – converted old building retaining its architectural charm but with modern facilities. Shower only leaked a little.