20 September Cool to start and then warmed up quite a bit.

On the road more than a month now and have had to walk or cycle in the rain only one day.

Last evening we spent with the Lawrenson’s an English couple from the Northwest of the UK, Chester. They bought their place 7 years ago and built the upstairs to into a very comfortable chambre d’hôte. Modern room with an excellent bathroom, except that we had to share with another room. But……

The view! In the USA about $100 would be added to the hotel bill for a view like the one we had. Both with the setting sun and the rising morning sun we had spectacular impressionist views of the Pyrenees. Attempts to capture them included in this post; of course a camera is a poor lens compared to the eye.

The group we shared the sausages and green beans and potatoes, along with a Gateau Basque ( filling of cream or custard – one of the the popular types) and some sort of veggie soup with cheese and pepper, not spicy; Sara does far better with similar ingredients; was the one that I mooched Kugelhopf from the other day at lunch. They were walking to an area near hear. Nice group of four nurses to share a meal with. Got to learn about the compensatory time nurses get for working 39 hour weeks. They get their 5 weeks vacation of course and then 4 hours a week of compensatory time for going over the allotted 35 hour week. Their view: lots of time but no money.

Another day of riding hills and reflection. This time about the Germany trip of a couple of years ago. That trip was far far easier, flatter, more good places to stay, better bathrooms, better showers, much better breakfasts, and better salads. However the biking here is much more interesting and challenging. Rolling hills and tough climbs, descents that are spine chilling, lots to see and always in interval training mode.

We are now about 5 km from Pays Basque. Thought we were there but we are still in the department Bearne. The line on the map is so fine that one needs the eyes of a 10 year old to see it. The menu as posted in this hotel, a good one, is new to us. Many dishes we have not seen before and spellings not yet familiar. Should be fun.

QB’s walk was one of near starvation. Had to call in all the emergency rations in her pack. The only real town on her route today should have been a refilling, refueling and eating place. They had nothing and all other shops were closed. QB had to eat the emergency rations and when she met me in Navarrenx we went to a restaurant for an immediate omelet de jambon.

One side effect of this traveling method is that I get to do picnic lunches, my favorite in France. Today I sat on a bench waiting for the QB and consumed a cereal bread, smoked salmon, Coeur de Bouef tomatoes ( betting eating type I have found), and some Port de Salut cheese. With my large picnic knife waving and slicing I refilled after the steep ( one was almost 9% for over 1.5 km) climbs.

Pictures include:

impressionist Pyrenees

old roman bridge

Navarrenx arsenal

12th century tower church