Montgros to St. Chely

Classic country walks today through cow fields. Luckily dry so no mud or wet cow pats. Cows d'Aubrac are a big breed here and are beautiful. And free range, as are chickens (see photo). Climbed up for several hours then back down a steep andu painful path. Fortunately I ran into Anna of Australia again so we were able to give one another some moral support.

Yesterday, hiking through another cow field we ran across Bernard, a man with two burros. He was halted in the field, and if I understood him correctly he was saying that the burros would not cross  a very small puddle in the field and he was stuck. Also yesterday a stile that we had to climb over (photo of Anne post-stile). Not a welcomed obstacle. Saw some pigeons. Squashed frog ( see photo).

Relived re French bread. Was worried in Le Puy that we would not find any real boulangeries.  No fear. There have been many along the way and beautiful bread specimens in most. KB still pretty depressed about lack of frites. Also, no staplers in France. I have yet to see soup de poisson, buto are moving out of the Massif region and into Languedoc, so perhaps the menu will begin to change.

Also tired of "pilgrim breakfast.". French way to save money by feeding you yesterday's stale bread with jam for breakfast. Not enough protein for a hungry pilgrim about to stomp o'er vale and hill.  

Lovely church (see photo) and garden at Aubrac. Interesting murals inside inside. One referenced "ultreia" which pilgrims used to say along with a response (something like "et sus eiea") apparently Latin from Hebrew and per haps something else before that. Meaning something like moving on and moving up (the latter spiritually).  French squatter toilets exist still, I'm sorry to say. Have been desperate enough to use them and have not forgotten the technique. Interesting how standards begin to deteriorate on the road. Now a stall shower that only flood the bathroom a little is a hotel high point.

Dinner tonight included confit of duck. Really Good. More cheese. Another tomme, another bleu.